There are only fourteen species in the Zygopetalum genus, and hybrid species are highly sought after by orchid enthusiasts. The most commonly grown species of this genus are Z. Intermedium, Z. Mackayi, and Z. Maxillare. Both the pure species and most hybrids are relatively easy to grow, making them great plants for beginners.

Natural Habitat

Zygopetalums are native to the mid-elevation areas of South America. They mostly grow inside rainforests and are therefore used to a humid environment. Some species, like Zygopetalum Maculatum and Zygopetalum Intermedium, grow mainly in the mountains.

These plants are epiphytic, which means they grow on tree trunks. Therefore they cannot tolerate soggy potting mixes. There are also some terrestrial species, like Zygopetalum Triste. You should find out the exact species of your plant so you can provide the appropriate care. 

How to Care for Zygopetalum Orchids

Now that we know about their natural habitat, we can look to recreate this at home.

Light

The light requirements for Zygopetalums are between those of Phalaenopsis and Oncidium orchids. Zygos like bright light. The ideal level is circa 3,000 foot-candles. A happy Zygo will have light green leaves and often a slight yellow tint. On the flip side, the leaves will be dark green if the plant is lacking light. 

A great place to place your Zygopetalum orchid is a south-facing windowsill, where they can rest in a bright shade. Shade is important for Zygos, as they naturally grow in the rainforest and are often shielded from direct sun while they grow on tree trunks. 

Direct sunlight throughout the day will most likely harm your plant. Keep an eye on the color of the leaves. They will become yellow if the plant is receiving too much light.

Related: How Much Light Do Orchids Need?

Temperature

Zygopetalum orchids grow well in moderate temperatures. The optimal day temperature is between 70F and 75F, and it should be about 10F lower during the night. 

However, you should always check what particular species you have. Those that grow at higher altitudes, such as Zygopetalum Maculatum and Zygopetalum Intermedium, prefer cooler temperatures. 

Zygo orchids are quite tough plants and may withstand higher temperatures during summer if you water them frequently. Similarly, during winter, they can survive temperatures lower than 50F if you keep them drier than usual. 

A bad combination is to keep Zygos in a cold and moist environment. This is often the cause of small spots on the leaves, which are a common problem for this type of orchid. 

Humidity

Zygopetalums’ natural habitat is the rainforest. They are therefore used to humid conditions and plenty of rainfalls. Humidity is particularly important during the growing season when the new pseudobulbs are being formed. 

The optimal humidity level is around 60%-70%, and up to 80% in summer. However, these plants are tough, and they can grow well in low humidity if everything else is appropriate. 

If humidity levels are quite high, you should have proper ventilation to avoid the risk of fungal or bacterial infection for your Zygopetalum orchid. Zygos are also very susceptible to rotting when the air is stagnant. Therefore good air movement is essential for these plants. 

Watering

Zygopetalums need plenty of water while they are growing. However, you should evaluate the requirement of the particular species you have. Note that unlike some other orchids, Zygo orchids do not go on a fully dormant phase during winter. 

These orchids often experience unusual rainfall patterns in their native environment. Winter and fall are usually wet in the rainforest, and spring and summer are even wetter. As a result, you should water them every two days during the warmer months. You can limit watering to around once a week once the growing phase has finished. This is usually in fall when the water-storing pseudobulbs have fully formed. 

You should not leave the mix to completely dry as these plants do not experience any dry period in their natural habitat. 

When watering your Zygopetalum orchid, avoid getting the pseudobulbs wet. As the pseudobulbs are very close to each other, the space between them is poorly aerated, and stagnant water may cause rotting and fungal infections.

Zygopetalum orchids and their hybrids tend to be sensitive to mineral build-up. You should use rainfall, distilled water, or reverse osmosis.

Related: How to Water an Orchid

Potting Mix

The potting mix will depend on the specific orchid species. Some Zygopetalums are epiphytic, whereas other species are terrestrial. In general, Zygopetalum orchids are tolerant of the potting mix as long as it’s airy and has excellent drainage. 

Epiphytic Zygopetalums grow well in a combination of bark, perlite, and small quantities of sphagnum moss. Some charcoal at the bottom of the pot may be beneficial if you’re using tap water in an area with hard water. Scoria or Aliflor are not particularly good mixes for Zygos. 

A particular mixing component that may be beneficial is dolomitic lime (calcium magnesium carbonate). You can add some on top of the mix twice a year, and the result will be stronger leaves that are less likely to bruise.

Related: Orchid Potting Mix

Pot

Zygopetalums are not very pot-bound. When choosing a pot, leave a margin of free space (around one inch) at the sides of the container. Most species, including Z.intermedium, Z.mackayi, Z.crinitum, and Z.maxillare, prefer shallow pots.

Related: Best Orchid Pots: Beginner’s Buying Guide

Repotting

A six to eight-inch pot is good for the first years of a Zygo orchid, as they tend to cluster their pseudobulbs close to each other. Remember that these plants are not very pot-bound, so once you notice that the pot is becoming a little small and the roots are being squashed, it may be time for repotting.

Usually repotting is done every two to three years, or when you notice that the orchid is not growing well. It may be the case that salts have accumulated at the roots, and the plant cannot absorb useful minerals.

Most of the new growths are produced during spring and summer. You should time the repotting to coincide with the end of the plant’s blooming cycle.

Zygos are quite succulent, and you should use great care when repotting them, so as not to damage the pseudobulbs.

Related: How to Repot an Orchid: Step by Step Guide

Blooms

Zygopetalum orchids are very rewarding. They generally bloom twice a year. However, some species can bloom up to four times a year! Their flowers last up to a month. It is indeed lovely to have a plant in full bloom in winter when most other plants have finished their blooming cycle. 

The inflorescences tend to be longer than the leaves, and they have up to seven flowers. Five flowers in a spike are often considered to be a sign of good health. Another bonus of growing a Zygopetalum orchid is that its flowers are usually very fragrant. 

The primary flower shades are purple, burgundy, and green. Some Zygopetalum species can even have blue flowers, and blue is a highly sought-after color in orchids. Flowers can be spotted and have several patterns, and the diameter is around two to three inches.

If your Zygopetalum is struggling to flower, you should move it to a place with plenty of light. The difference in time between day and night is another important factor for initiating blooming; therefore, placing the orchid near a windowsill is a good idea. Reducing watering also helps with inducing flowering, however, remember that the plant should not be completely dry. 

Related: How Often do Orchids Bloom?

Fertilizer

Zygopetalum orchids are not too fussy, and they enjoy any balanced fertilizer. As a rule of thumb, you should use higher nitrogen fertilizers from early spring until July, when the plant is in a growing phase and low nitrogen fertilizers during fall. 

When using high-nitrogen fertilizers, ensure that the formula is well diluted, i.e., quarter strength and that you only use it monthly. Otherwise, the leaves risk becoming brittle. Some cultivators who have used milorganite, a nitrogen-rich fertilizer, have reported good results with Zygos.

Related: Orchid Fertilizer: Everything You Need to Know

Care Summary

Here’s a quick recap:

Frequently Asked Questions

My Zygopetalum has spots on its leaves. Is that normal?

It is quite common for these orchids to have some degree of spotting on the leaves. Zygopetalum Mackayi is particularly susceptible to tiny brown spots. In general, if spotting is not too excessive, the plants still grow and bloom fine.

In the case that leaf spotting is spreading fast, you should understand the cause and take action. Zygopetalum leaf spotting is often due to low temperatures, high levels of moisture, and a high concentration of dissolved minerals due to poor water quality. You can try to adjust these variables to keep your orchid healthy.

My orchid has brown leaf tips. Is that normal?

Brown leaf tips are quite common for Zygopetalums. You don’t usually need to do anything. However, if you dislike the appearance, you can trim the tips off using sterilized scissors.

What are some Zygopetalum species or hybrids that I can grow?

Zygopetalum Mackaii is a commonly cultivated species. They mostly grow in Brazil, at an altitude of 1300m to 1700m, in rainforests. They grow best in cool to medium temperatures. 

Zygopetalum Maculatum can be found in Brazil, Peru, and Bolivia, in wet and mossy forests. They are cold to cool epiphytic plants that typically grow around 1100m to 2500m above sea level. 

Zygopetalum intermedium grows in the same areas as Z. Maculatum, but in even higher altitudes. They are cold growing terrestrial species and often have blue-tinted flowers. They grow well in semi-terrestrial potting mixes, which have some water retention abilities. Both species are suitable for beginners.

Zygolum Louisendorf, also known as ‘Rhein Moonlight’, is known for its dark-colored flowers, which have a noticeable strong sweet smell. They can bloom up to four times a year.

The post Zygopetalum Orchid: Beginner’s Care Guide appeared first on Brilliant Orchids.

It’s often tricky to find out if a room has enough brightness for your orchid because our eyes adjust to a range of lighting conditions. There are many ways to get a pretty good idea of whether the light levels are adequate for your orchid.

Aside from specific requirements for various species, we will also share some general lighting advice and tips that apply to all orchids.

Basic Principles of Lighting for Orchids

The most important characteristics of light for your orchid are intensity, quality, and duration, also known as the photoperiod.

Light intensity is what we perceive as brightness, and is to do with the amount of light that the plant receives. A standard measurement for intensity, often used by growers, is foot-candles. You can measure this with a light meter. Alternatively, you can use the ‘hand test’ described further down in this article.

What we perceive as white light from the sun is actually made up of all the colors that we know. Light quality measures the relative amount of blue, green, red, and other portions of the spectrum. Plants use various colors of light for different functions.

For example, red is needed for reproduction and blue for photosynthesis and growth. You don’t need to worry about this if you are using sunlight as the primary source of light. However, a good understanding of light quality is essential for those who grow orchids under artificial lights.

Light duration is an important factor in balancing the life cycle of plants. Orchids use the change in day length to tell the difference in the seasons, hence adjusting their growth and blooming periods. Growers often change the number of hours of light to time the flowering of certain orchids, like Cattleyas.

Light Requirements for Types of Orchid

The light requirements of different orchids vary. In general, you should provide your orchid with a level of lighting similar to what they get in their natural habitat.

Depending on the amount of light that different types of orchids require, we have categorized them into three main groups:

Low Light Orchids

Examples: Phalaenopsis, Paphiopedilum

Low light orchids require between 1000 and 2000 foot-candles, and they should not be exposed to bright direct light. The main reason why low light orchids should be kept away from direct sunshine is that they are more susceptible to leaf burns compared to other orchids. However, they will not grow well if you keep them in darkness, for example, on a remote shelf or in a dim corner of the room. 

The ideal place for a low light orchid is in bright shade, near a sunny window, but where they don’t get exposure to direct sunlight. However, if the plant gets just a bit of sunshine early in the morning or late in the day, this is fine as sunburn is unlikely to occur due to this limited exposure. 

Remember to check the specifics for your plant, as there may be variations even within one genus. For example, growers often claim that Paphiopedilum orchids that have mottled leaves can tolerate higher light than the strap-leaved Paps. 

These orchids, which do not prefer direct sunshine on their leaves, are perfect candidates for growing under artificial light. 

Moderate Light Orchids

Examples: Cattleyas, Dendrobiums

Medium-light orchids require between 2000 and 3000 foot-candles of light. As expected, their requirements are between low and high light orchids.

They grow well in bright shade. However, sun exposure during the morning and evening is very important. These hours of direct sunshine are often a key factor in making these orchids bloom. 

They grow better in the shade near a big bright window, where they can get some filtered sunlight.

These orchids can also grow under artificial light. The light source should be closer than for low light orchids. Usually, it should be about 10 inches away from the plant. 

High Light Orchids

Examples: Vandas, Cymbidiums, Ascocenda, Oncidiums

These orchids can tolerate up to 6000 foot-candles. However, you should check the specific light requirements for your species as the sun tolerance can vary for these orchids. The ones that are on the lower end of this spectrum will do better in filtered sun, so you can place them behind a sheer curtain.

The best place for high light orchids is an east- or south-facing windowsill. Direct sunlight coming from a window, depending on your geographical location, can range between 4000 and 8000 foot-candles measured directly by the glass.

Orchids grow typically in the rainforests, quite high on the tree trunks, and as you can imagine, they get some shade from the trees above them. Therefore, when we talk about high light orchids, it does not mean that they prefer to stay in the sun all day. They can still get sunburnt if they are exposed to hot sunshine for extended periods. 

How to Measure Light Brightness

Once you know how much light your orchid needs, you should find a place with the appropriate amount of light. An easy way to measure light levels is with the hand test. You do not need any tools to perform this test, so it is quick and easy to do yourself. 

On a clear day, place your hand between the leaves and the light source, about one foot away from the orchid leaves, and look at the shadow your hand creates.

• If you see no shadow at all, you are in a very low light environment. This is too low for almost all orchids.
• If you see a barely noticeable shade, this is a low light environment.
• If the shadow is noticeable and you see a faint outline of your hand, this is a medium-light environment.
• If you see a sharp dark shadow, this is a high light environment.   

The hand shadow test is only an approximation, but it should give you a good idea of whether your orchid is receiving the right amount of light. You can also use a light meter, a simple device to measure the intensity with much higher accuracy. 

Another quick measurement you can easily do by using your hand is feeling the temperature of the leaves. If the leaves feel warmer than your hand on touching, your plant is receiving too much sunlight. This will most likely damage the plant in a short time.

How Many Hours of Light Should My Orchid Get?

On average, orchids prefer around 12 hours of light per day. However, this should not be constant throughout the year. 

The number of hours of light that your plant is receiving is generally not a problem if you are using natural sunlight. The exception is if you live in a country with significant differences in the duration of night and day in various seasons, such as Iceland.

However, if you are using artificial light, you should adjust the photoperiod to mirror the seasons, i.e., longer hours during summer. 

During summer, receiving light for around 13.5 hours is perfect, while in winter, around 11 hours are good enough. If you live in a country with long summer days, you may want to shield your orchid from the sun during the hottest hours. You can also use artificial lights if you live in a country with very short daylight during winter.

According to the American Orchid Society, plants can perceive very low levels of light, even one-tenth of a foot-candle. A small amount of lighting, e.g., 10 foot-candles, can extend the photoperiod for your orchid. A streetlight just outside of your window should not pose a problem, though.

If you are worried that a bright light source may disturb your plant during the night, consider growing orchids like Paphs and Phals. These are not very sensitive to the photoperiod. 

Color and Shape of Leaves

A happy orchid generally has light green leaves, not grass-like green. They hold their foliage out horizontally or somewhat upright. Note that this also depends on the species. For most species, the leaves should be relatively short and small, as the plant does not need extra leaf surface to gather light.

Dark green foliage, on the other side, means that the orchid does not have enough light. The foliage of such orchids is usually long and flappy, as the leaves try to reach more sunlight. New growth and leaves of such orchids are also quite thin and easy to break. 

Yellow leaves are usually a sign that the orchid is receiving too much light. However, yellow leaves may also indicate other problems, like root rot or exposure to low temperatures. Sometimes a few leaves (especially bottom ones) may turn yellow simply because they are old. Therefore, don’t rush to move your orchid to a darker place if you are almost sure that the light levels are right. 

Generally, the leaves of an orchid receiving too much light will start turning from yellow to white. They develop sunken white spots that will eventually turn to black. These black spots are sunburn, and this damage is irreversible. Such damage to the foliage reduces the capacity of your orchid to perform photosynthesis. 

You may also notice that your orchids’ leaves are turning purple or reddish, especially around the edges. This is also a sign that the plant is overexposed to the sun.

Growing Under Artificial Lights

You can use a variety of artificial lights to grow your orchid indoors. A key thing to remember is that the light intensity requirements that you often read are for orchids that grow under natural sunlight. They refer to the recommended peak intensity levels during the day when the sun is at its brightest. 

If you apply these numbers to your artificial lights, which provide constant light intensity, you will most likely burn your orchids. As a rule of thumb, when growing under artificial light, you should aim for around half of the recommended number of foot-candles for your orchid species.

Fluorescent lights are very popular for growing orchids indoors, mainly because they are cost-effective. They provide a balanced spectrum of light with all the colors that orchids need to grow and reproduce. Fluorescent lamps provide relatively low light intensity. Therefore, you should place them quite close to the plant, circa one to three feet away.

Filament incandescent lights are a common type of domestic lamp which produces a yellowish light. They also provide a balanced spectrum of light needed for the overall growth of your orchid. Orchids grown under these lights tend to be elongated. Their downside is that they are quite inefficient at converting electricity into light, and can be quite costly to run. 

LED lights are another popular choice. However, there are some mixed opinions of their efficiency for growing orchids. Their emitted light spectrum can be quite narrow and sometimes even outside of the range needed for the flower to perform photosynthesis. Some LEDs produce only monochromatic light, and you may need a combination of red and blue LEDs. Therefore, you should check the specifications of the LED you intend to use, to ensure that the wavelength produced by it is within the range needed by the plant. 

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Due to the large number of species, these orchids come in a variety of shapes and sizes, from miniature to large plants. They often grow in clumps of reed-like stems, and they yield many plants from one stem.

Epidendrum orchids are known for producing vibrant colored flowers that will brighten your house and improve your mood. They bloom several times throughout the year and are easy to grow and very forgiving plants, making them a great candidate tor beginners. 

Let’s start by looking at their natural environment, so we can understand what conditions they require.

Natural Habitat

Epidendrums are native to the subtropical and tropical areas of the American continents. They are accustomed to various altitudes, from sea level to circa 3000m in the Andes. 

Many species of this genus are epiphytic plants, like the majority of orchids. However, there are some terrestrial species, such as Epidendrum Fulgens. Some remarkable species, like Epidendrum Calanthum, are lithophytic plants, which means that they grow on rocks. 

Although these plants are adapted to a variety of conditions, you should know the natural habitat if your particular species, so that you can provide the proper care.

How to Care for an Epidendrum Orchid

Here are the different aspects you’ll need to consider when caring for your plant.

Light

Sunshine and bright light throughout the year is the most essential condition for Epidendrum orchids. The light requirements are generally similar to that of Cattleya orchids.

These plants tend to elongate, have dark leaves, and not bloom if they lack light. Therefore, if you notice any of these signs, it is time to move your orchid to a brighter place. The leaves of reed-stem Epidendrum orchids tend to get a slight red tint when they are happy with the lighting. 

The species that grow in higher altitudes prefer more shade. Always remember to check the natural habitat of your specific orchid and adjust the lighting accordingly. 

If you chose to leave your plant outside during the warmer months, be mindful that direct sun exposure may burn the leaves. Therefore, an east or west-facing balcony is appropriate, as it will protect the plant from sunburns. 

Temperature

Most Epidendrum orchids grow well in cool or intermediate to warm temperatures. Most species will thrive if kept between 60F and 90F during the day and a few degrees lower during the night. They are, however, quite forgiving and can tolerate a wide range of temperatures. 

As a rule of thumb, you should not keep your orchid below 50F for extended periods. You should, however, be mindful of the particular species requirements as these can vary a lot.

Epidendrum Conopseum, for example, can even tolerate freezing conditions. Meanwhile, Epidendrum Cinnabarinum and many of its primary hybrids prefer warmer temperatures. Epidendrum Radicans, which is a commonly cultivated species, grows well in cool conditions. 

Humidity

Epidendrum orchids enjoy moderate humidity levels, between 50% and 80% throughout the year. If the humidity is too low, you can use humidity trays or spray the orchid with a mist, especially during the summer months. 

Watering

Most species like to be watered regularly and abundantly, especially during the growth phase. You should, however, avoid overwatering, as this will damage the roots. 

During winter and the flowering phase, you should allow the soil to dry slightly before re-watering. After watering abundantly, allow the water to drain from the bottom of the pot, to prevent minerals build-ups in the potting mix. 

In terms of water quality, most species are not fussy and can tolerate tap water. The species that grow in the higher elevations, however, prefer rainwater or distilled water, as they are adopted to the pure rainfalls in the mountains. 

Some species, like the reed-stem Epidendrum, responds to the water reduction by blooming. This can, therefore, be a good trick if you have a reed-stem Epidendrum, which looks healthy but is not blooming.

If you’d like to learn more about watering, check out our guide here.

Potting Mix & Pot

The pot and medium you need will depend on the type of orchid and how it grows in its native environment. The epiphytic plants can be mounted or potted in relatively small pots, while the terrestrial species can be planted on the ground. 

The epiphytic Epidendrum species grow well in a potting mix that has good drainage, such as a mix of bark, tree fern, coconut husks, and sphagnum moss. If the sphagnum moss makes up a fair bit of the potting mix, adding charcoal is beneficial, as this will help to remove stagnant water. 

In general, these plants will prefer a coarse mixture with plenty of air spaces. Be mindful that if you are using a hanging basket with many charcoal pieces, this can be quite drying, and you should ensure that the plant is moist. Similarly, an Epidendrum planted in a clay pot in comparison to a plastic pot, requires more watering. 

The terrestrial species grow well on low nutrient media such as sandy loam soil. Species like Epidendrum Radicans (the reed-stem Epidendrum) are very tolerant of soil conditions, and they can be used to create beautiful raised flowerbeds. Be careful, however, not to combine different species in a flowerbed as these will start to complete with each other. This leads to the detriment of the weaker plants. 

Repotting

Repotting Epidendrum orchids is not recommended unless it is visibly necessary. If you see some root growing on the surface of the potting mix, this is not necessarily a sign that repotting is needed. This is actually a sign that your Epidendrum orchid is doing well.

If you need to refresh the potting mix, repot the orchid once every three years, after a blooming session. The new pot size should be just enough to fit the roots. After repotting, put the plant back to the same place.

Some growers report that the Epidendrum orchids are very fussy once they are used to particular conditions. A sudden change of pot, altogether with a change of place, can be a dramatic change for your plant, and it may lead to poor health. 

Blooms

The good news is that Epidendrum orchids are quite generous with flowers. They can bloom several times during the year, and the flowers are relatively long-lasting. 

Epidendrum orchids are very varied in flower size and appearance. They are known for producing vibrant color flowers. The most common colors are orange, yellow, red, and hot pink. Depending on the species, the flowers may be plain or spotted. 

They mostly grow in tufts, and the flowers are usually small to medium in size. Most flowers have a three-lobed lip at the bottom of the flower. 

Many species have fragrant flowers, and some of them, like the Epidendrum Difforme, have heavier smell during the night.

Fertilizer

Epidendrum orchids enjoy fertilizers, regardless of their reputation as little survivors of harsh conditions. When fertilized with a well-balanced and slow-release fertilizer, these orchids will respond very quickly by creating greener leaves, stronger roots, and more flower spikes. 

Any standard orchid fertilizer works well with Epidendrum orchids if used following the manufacturer’s instructions in terms of dilution and frequency. Be mindful to check the specific species that you have. The Epidendrums that grow in lower lights and northern climates prefer fertilizers that are not too rich in nitrogen. 

Care Summary

Here’s a brief summary of what we just learned:

Frequently Asked Questions

Here are some common questions we get about Epidendrums:

Are Reed-stem and Crucifix Epidendrums Easy to Grow?

Yes, Epidendrum Radicans, also known as the Reed-stem Epidendrum, is an easy plant to grow. They can live in almost any environment, mounted, potted, or outdoors. They are also tolerant of hard water. Therefore you don’t need to use rainfall or distilled water. 

The most common problem you can face while growing reed-stem Epidendrums is susceptibility to fungus. Little round brown spotting in the leaves of your plant can be caused by fungus. You can use a plant-specific anti-fungal spray if this is the case. However, often this spot-causing fungus does not affect the overall growth and health of the reed-stem Epidendrums. 

Epidendrum Ibaguense, also known as Crucifix orchid, has a distinctive three-lobed lip that resembles a cross, hence the name. The care guide for crucifix orchids is similar to that of the Epidendrum Radicans.

What are Some Hybrids or Special Epidendrum Species I Can Grow?

The Epidendrum genus is closely related to the Cattleya genus, and many hybrids can be produced by a combination of these two genera, as well as between different species of Epidendrums. Some natural hybrids are actually names as species, such as Epidendrum Doroteae or Epidendrum Purpureum. 

Epidendrum Ilense is a hard-to-find orchid species. The incredible looks of its flowers, characterized by a fringed lip, are worth the search. If you ever see this plant for sale, you should not hesitate to buy it. These plants are very rare, and orchid enthusiasts are always on the hunt for this species.

If you get your hands on Epidendrum Ilense, you can then produce its most well-known hybrid, the Epidendrum ‘Plastic doll’. This is a primary hybrid between Epidendrum Pseudepidendrum and Epidendrum Ilense. This orchid is famous for its ultra-shiny and glossy flowers, almost like plastic, hence the name.

Thanks for reading, we hope you found this article useful! Did we miss anything? Let us know in the comments below.

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These orchids are characterized by long thin grass-like foliage and deep red triangular flowers. Widely known for their coconut scent, these beautiful plants will fill your home with their sweet smell. 

Natural Habitat

The Maxillaria genus is native to Latin America, growing at low altitudes up to 1500m. Therefore, these plants are accustomed to a dry season starting in December lasting until April, and a rainy season for the rest of the year, during which they get plenty of rainfalls. 

Maxillaria tenuifolia is an epiphytic plant growing typically on rainforest trees. However, sometimes these grow as terrestrial plants. These orchids have an ascending growth tendency as the plant tries to reach light through the tree crowns. 

How to Care for a Coconut Orchid

We can break this natural habitat down into several aspects which you can try to reproduce in your own home:

Light

This orchid requires bright indirect lighting. You can place your plant on an east- or west-facing windowsill. They will also grow well in bright greenhouses and under fluorescent light. 

Optimally they should have around 1500 to 3500 foot-candles of light. However, they can tolerate up to 5000 foot-candles. 

If you place your coconut orchid in a low light environment, the long grass-like foliage will likely extend, as the plant will be searching to catch more light. 

As with most orchids, you should not leave it under direct bright sunlight, which can damage the plant. 

Temperature

Maxillaria tenuifolia grows well in intermediate temperatures. The optimal temperature is around 55F during winter nights and up to 75F during winter days. During the summer months, the plant can tolerate several degrees warmer. 

Although it’s a forgiving plant, do not expose it to temperatures outside of this range for a prolonged amount of time. Also, ensure there is no cold draft continually coming from the window directly to the plant. 

Humidity

These orchids prefer a humidity of 50 percent or higher, up to circa 70 percent. 

If the room where you are keeping your orchid is dry, you can use a humidity tray to give your plant a boost. Alternatively, you can mist the plant daily to increase humidity if the air has humidity below 50%. 

Please keep in mind that if the room is too humid, you require a better ventilation system to keep the plant healthy and reduce the risk of diseases.

Watering

The watering pattern for the coconut orchid should mimic the rainy and dry seasons of its natural habitat.

You should allow the medium to dry between watering during the dry season. Therefore, between December and April, the optimal watering is every two to three weeks. However, if you notice that the pseudobulbs are becoming wrinkled, this is a sign that your plant is dry, and it is time to water your orchid. 

During the rainy season, you should water it around four to five times a week. Keep in mind that these plants get plenty of rainfall during this period, and constant moisture is needed.

You should still allow some drying between watering. Be careful though not to overwater your plant during this time, as this may lead to root rot.

You should start to reduce the watering frequency gradually around September to prepare the plant for the upcoming dry season.

Water quality is essential for a Maxillaria. We recommend that you use rainfall, reverse osmosis, or distilled water to minimize the risk of accumulation of minerals in the root system.

Potting Mix & Pot

If you want to achieve the most natural look for your coconut orchid, you should consider mounting it on tree ferns or cork. As an epiphytic plant, it grows on tree branches in their natural habitat; therefore, mounting is a great choice. 

You can also plant your orchid in pots with fir bark, coir, perlite, and any mix that does not allow the roots to remain constantly soggy, for example, potting soil. A hanging basket with coconut husk at the bottom is perfect for this plant. The basket will allow the long grass-like leaves to fall gracefully.

A layer of sphagnum moss and perlite can be useful for some water retention, especially if the plant is in a relatively dry environment. Be mindful that the medium should provide adequate drainage. The amount of sphagnum moss should be limited to no more than 20 percent of the media, to avoid sogginess. 

You can also add some horticultural charcoal to your orchid’s potting mix. The charcoal helps to get rid of stagnant water and protects the plant against acidification. 

Repotting

Like most orchids, Maxillaria tenuifolia does not like root disturbance. If you see that your coconut orchid is starting to droop a lot over the edge of the pot, it is maybe time for repotting. Repotting is also a good idea if your orchid seems a bit tired, and a replenished medium would support it.

You should consider repotting after a round of blooming. You can repot the orchid every two years if necessary. Check out our repotting guide to learn how to do this safely.

When choosing a pot, you should go for a tighter container rather than a large one. You do not want to have a high percentage of potting media in comparison with the roots, because a pot larger than necessary may cause the roots to rot.

If your coconut orchid has some rotting parts, remove these before proceeding any further, leaving only the healthy bulbs. When doing so, for added protection, you should disinfect the scissors and the roots with a plant-specific disinfector before repotting.

Do not remove the brown sheaths on the stems between the bulbs of your Maxillaria. Their function is to protect the aerial roots, and removing this will damage the roots and, eventually, your plant. 

Blooms

Maxillaria tenuifolia has a distinctive deep red bloom, which grows from one singular flower stem. The lip is white or yellow with red spots, resembling a leopard pattern. The spotting is unique to each clone, and it repeats the same pattern bloom after bloom. 

The fragrant flowers appear from spring to summer, and they can last for around ten days. The flowers grow in short stems and look almost as if they are hiding beneath the foliage. The flowers’ sweet coconut aroma is intense and can fill entire rooms with their lovely fragrance. 

When using bloom fertilizers during the summer months, some Maxillarias will have a prolonged blooming time reaching until late summer.

Fertilizer

The best time to start using fertilizer is early spring. During this time, you can use nitrogen-rich enricher fertilizer weekly. This type of fertilizer will support the overall growth and the metabolism of your plant.

During late summer, you can use phosphorus-based fertilizers to stimulate a prolonged flowering cycle. 

You can use quarter strength if using weekly or half-strength fertilizer if used more sparingly. It is important to dilute the fertilizer to prevent root burn for your coconut orchid. Watering the plant before and after using fertilizer is beneficial. Watering will push the essential ingredients down to the roots. 

Care Summary

If you’d like to download this as a handy cheat sheet, right-click the image below and select “Save Image”:

We recommend printing it off and keeping it by your orchid. Please share it if you find it useful!

Frequently Asked Questions

We consider this to be one of the easier orchids to grow, but there are some common questions and problems you may have:

Is the Maxillaria Tenuifolia Suitable for Beginners?

From my personal experience, it’s one of the most forgiving orchids. The required care is similar to that of Cattleyas. So if you’ve already grown a Cattleya, this should be quite easy for you. 

The coconut orchid is a real fighter and can tolerate environmental changes better than most orchids. It is, therefore, a suitable plant for novices and anyone who does not have too much time to create the perfect controlled environment for their flowers. 

My Coconut Orchid Is Not Blooming, How Can I Make This Happen?

Although easy to grow, Maxillaria tenuifolia is rather tricky with providing blooms. Before you consider inducing the flowers, be mindful that the resting winter months are essential for preparing the plant to bloom. 

If you cannot wait to see your coconut orchid to show its flowers, exposing it to cooler temperatures during the night can stimulate the blooms.

Some Maxillaria growers report that placing the plant outdoors during spring and summer has resulted in blooms. This may be due to the higher temperature variance between night and day, and increased sunlight. 

You can also use phosphorus-based fertilizers to stimulate the flowering, as shown in the guidance above. Also, exposing a coconut orchid to more light will help with the blooming.

How Can I Make My Maxillaria Grow Taller?

When your orchid is young, you can support the plant by staking the stems. When it grows, you can remove and stakes and interweave the stems so that they support each other as they develop. This will help your coconut orchid to grow horizontally and create a beautiful specimen plant. 

My Coconut Orchid’s Pseudobulbs Look Dark and May Have Rot. How Can I Help It?

Dark bulbs may be a sign of the roots of your Maxillaria doing poorly. The pot may be too big for the plant, therefore causing root rot. Consider moving the orchid to a smaller pot, using the repotting guidance above. 

If you notice this spreading to the other bulbs of your orchid, act quickly. Remove the dark bulbs as soon as possible, to prevent the spread. At the cut, put some cinnamon powder, which has antibacterial and antifungal properties.

We hope you found this guide useful! We’d love to hear about your experiences growing the coconut orchid. Leave us a comment below!

The post Maxillaria Tenuifolia (Coconut Orchid): Beginner’s Care Guide appeared first on Brilliant Orchids.

The bizarre species are considered to be excellent specimens for orchid collectors and flower enthusiasts around the world.

As always, let’s start by looking at the conditions in which they grow in the wild.

Natural Habitat

Bulbophyllums can usually be found in the warmer parts of the world, such as Thailand and Vietnam. Various species have adapted to grow on diverse habitats from high mountains to sea level.

Similar to the majority of other orchid types, Bulbos are epiphytic plants, which means they grow on the tree trunks in forests. In general, as most Bulbophyllum orchids come from the rainforests, they require high humidity and good air movement.

Bulbophyllums only thrive if the conditions they are cultivated in is similar to that of their natural habitat. This depends on the exact species.

How to Care for a Bulbophyllum Orchid

We can break this environment down into a few different aspects:

Light

Bulbophyllum orchids enjoy moderate to bright lighting, with the morning being the best time for receiving sunshine.

You should try to shield your plant from direct sunlight around midday when the sun is too intense. This is not necessary on cloudy days and after 3pm.

Depending on the species, Bulbos can tolerate lower light conditions. However, you will see less flowering if that is the case. 

Temperature

Finding the right temperature is probably the trickiest part for growers of Bulbos. Most species like intermediate to warm temperatures.

However, due to their ability to grow in diverse habitats, you should check specific instructions for the species you are trying to grow. You can use the website orchidspecies.com to check the climate characteristics for your particular plant.

Species that grow in high altitudes require temperatures around 60 F. Those that grow near the equator and prefer a hot climate, like Bulbophyllum cumingii, tend to thrive if kept at about 75F to 85F.

Regardless of the species, avoid placing your orchid near any cold draft of air, as this will soon damage your plant.

Humidity

Almost all species of Bulbophyllum like to stay in a high humidity environment, and the general recommendation is that humidity should be around 60%. However, many growers have found that their Bulbos seem to tolerate humidity as low as 18%.

The trick is to maintain frequent watering of the plant and to pot the orchid in a high water retention medium.

Watering

Bulbophyllums have fine root systems that generally require moisture at all times.

These orchids need frequent watering, although you should adjust watering if the species you are growing comes from regions that have dry periods. You should normally water a potted Bulbophyllum several times a week, and mounted ones daily.

If you have planted your Bulbophyllum in bark, it will need more frequent watering, as bark tends to dry faster. On the flip side, if you have planted your orchid in moss mix, check that the moss has just dried, before watering it again.

To initiate flowering, some types of Bulbophyllum require a period of drought. Remember that these are epiphytic plants, and they have adapted to drought between the rainfalls.

Potting Mix & Pot

The best potting mixes for Bulbophyllum orchids include bark, perlite, coir (coconut fiber), and sphagnum moss. You can also use combinations of these, sometimes with an additional bottom layer of charcoal.

When choosing the potting mix for your orchid, you should keep in mind that the roots prefer to be moist. If you live in a country with mild summer temperatures, fine bark may be the best medium for your Bulbophyllum orchid. In contrast, medium-sized orchid mix works best if you live in a country with hot summer months.

If you are interested in creating a beautiful mounted display with your Bulbo, you can use tree fern, cork, or Styrofoam. As many orchids are epiphytic, mounting is a much-preferred cultivation method for certain species.

Most Bulbophyllums have small roots, and you should plant them in a shallow pot, if not mounted. Some species have very long rhizomes, and potting will depend on that. 

Repotting

As an epiphytic plant in their natural habitat, Bulbos have an extensively developed system of very fine roots. If you repot the orchid without proper care, you can easily damage their delicate root system.

Repotting is not generally recommended. However, if you need to, repot your Bulbophyllum every two to three years between August and January.

You can check out our repotting guide for step-by-step instructions.

Blooms

The good news about these orchids is that they generally bloom throughout the year, with one of two more showy and major blooms. Once the flowers appear, they tend to last between one and six weeks, depending on the species.

If you don’t see blooming occurring for some time, the trick is to move your orchid to a brighter place or suspend watering for a bit, depending on the orchid type.

Fertilizer

Bulbophyllums enjoy regular, slow-release fertilizers, particularly during the summer months. Between August and January, the best type of fertilizer is rich in nitrogen, while phosphorus-rich fertilizers are best during late summer and autumn.

You can use a quarter strength fertilizer once a week during summer, and you can use a spray fertilizer occasionally. During winter, add fertilizer roughly once a month. 

Bulbophyllum Care Summary & Cheat Sheet

Here’s a brief summary of what we just learned:

If you’d like to download this as a handy cheat sheet, right-click the image below and select “Save Image”:

We recommend printing it off and keeping it by your orchid. Please share it if you find it useful!

Frequently Asked Questions

Here are some common questions people have about these weird and wonderful orchids:

My Bulbophyllum Orchid Smells Bad, Is This Normal?

The flowers of the Bulbophyllum orchid are known for sometimes producing unpleasant smells to attract pollinators. Some notorious smells are those of rotten meat or garbage!

There is nothing wrong with your plant if you notice this, and hopefully, the smell will not discourage you from looking after your plant. 

What Are Some Bizarre Bulbophyllums That I Can Grow?

Bulbophyllum medusae, also known as Medusa orchid, is named after the Greek mythology female character Medusa. The appearance of this orchid’s flower, with long thin sepals, resembles the snakes on Medusa’s heads. 

Bulbophyllum echinolabium is a common Bulbo for first-time growers. It has a very distinctive flower shape with very elongated bottom petals and a sharp orange tip. 

Bulbophyllum longissimum is an exotic orchid originally from Thailand, with a semi-circular flower arrangement and long shiny leaves. The inflorescences extend from the plant, which makes the flowers look like they are floating.

The Cirrhopetalum Elisabeth Ann’ Buckleberry’, which is a hybrid of the Bulbophyllum longissimum and Cirrhopetalum longissimum, is another amazing specimen plant. 

How Do I Get Rid of Fungus on My Bulbophyllum Orchid?

Because of the high humidity that Bulbos prefer, they are often very susceptible to fungus. Use a fungicide spray every month on your plant, particularly during the warm summer months.

Ensure you keep your plant in a well-ventilated space as poor ventilation can contribute to fungus growth.

Did we miss anything? Do you have any care tips for these crazy orchids? Let us know in the comments below!

The post Bulbophyllum Orchid: Beginner’s Care Guide appeared first on Brilliant Orchids.

It can happen for a variety of reasons and can be quite concerning at first. However, this is usually pretty easy to fix, and you shouldn’t worry about it too much.

Sometimes you don’t need to do anything at all!

This guide covers the nine most common causes of yellow leaves. Here’s how to identify and fix each one:

Too Much Direct Light (Sunburn)

The number one most common cause of yellow leaves is sunburn due to too much direct sunlight.

Orchids generally need to be in a bright location, but not bathed in sunshine. However, some are more tolerant of light than others. The correct amount will depend on the genus (and sometimes exact species) of your orchid.

How to Fix: First, check what type of orchid you have. Its light requirements will depend on its natural habitat. Some orchids naturally grow under thick tree cover and are used to having a lot of shade. Others thrive in the open and can tolerate more direct sunlight.

Move your orchid to a spot that’s a bit more shaded if you suspect this to be the problem. It’s generally best to avoid north-facing windows, as these let in the most light.

Hard Water

When watering your orchid, the type of water you’re using might not be the first thing on your mind. However, this can actually make a big difference.

Many people live in areas with hard tap water, which has high levels of dissolved minerals such as magnesium and calcium. These can cause problems with your plant’s absorption of nutrients.

As a result, your orchid can develop yellow leaves.

How to Fix: There are a few ways to fix this problem:

• Use distilled water to water your orchid, as this is very pure.
• Use bottled water, which is generally quite soft compared to tap water.
• Invest in a water softener, which can remove some of the minerals from your tap water.

Water softeners can be quite expensive, but they’re very effective and are a great investment. They also help with chores like washing dishes and doing laundry, as you’ll need less detergent.

Over-watering (Root Rot)

Over-watering or poor drainage can cause your orchid’s roots to rot. As a result, your orchid will be unable to absorb nutrients effectively, and its leaves will turn yellow.

How to Fix: Only water your orchid when the top inch of the potting medium is dry and the roots are white.

You should also check the pot you’re using. Orchids need to be grown in pots with plenty of drainage holes to ensure proper water drainage.

If you suspect the yellow leaves are due to over-watering, your orchid may be suffering from root rot. Inspect the roots to see if the plant still has some healthy green roots.

If so, trim off the rotted roots and repot your plant in fresh potting mix. Don’t water the soil for the first week after repotting, just lightly mist the leaves so the roots will have a chance to recover.

Be sure to check out our watering guide if you’d like to learn how to avoid common watering issues like this.

Under-watering (Dehydration)

If your orchid isn’t getting enough water, it will become dehydrated. This can cause yellow leaves, which will also appear dry or shriveled.

This issue is more common with some types of orchid than others.

Orchids with large aerial root systems absorb moisture from the air and can often go for ages without being watered. Others will need more frequent watering to avoid dehydration.

How to Fix: Check your orchid’s roots to confirm the problem:

• If they’re a healthy white color, but the leaves are yellow and wrinkled, this could be an under-watering problem.
• If the roots are going a bit brown and dry, this is a sure sign that they need more water.
• When they’re black or rotten, this is due to over-watering instead. Refer to the section above to fix this.

If you’ve determined that your orchid needs more water, check out our watering guide for the correct techniques. A good rule of thumb is to wait until the top inch of your potting mix is dry before watering.

You should also check what type of orchid you have, along with its specific watering requirements.

Low Temperatures

If your room temperature is too cold, it can cause your orchid’s metabolism to slow down. This can cause problems with its biological processes and result in yellowing leaves.

How to Fix: Adjust your thermostat, or move your orchid to a more suitable spot.

In general, the ideal temperatures for growing orchids are between 65 and 80 F during the day and slightly cooler at night. So if you feel comfortable, your orchid probably will too.

As always, this depends on which type of orchid you have. Your plant will expect to be in an environment similar to its natural habitat.

Diseases (Yellow Leaves With Spots)

If your orchid’s leaves are turning yellow with black spots, this can indicate a bacterial or fungal disease.

The most common cause is wet leaves or high humidity. This excess moisture provides the perfect environment for diseases to thrive.

You’ll need to act fast to prevent it from spreading.

How to Fix: The infected foliage must be cut away. It’s difficult to distinguish between bacterial and fungal infections, so pruning is usually the best course of action.

Use a clean, sharp blade to cut off the infected tissue and about an inch of clean, green area.

If you suspect it’s a fungal infection, apply a fungicide to the cut surface. This will prevent the disease from reoccurring.

Too Much Fertilizer

Applying too much fertilizer is a common mistake, especially for beginners. It’s meant to help your orchid grow faster, so it can be tempting to use it every time you water your plant.

However, you can have too much of a good thing. Orchids generally don’t need a lot of fertilizer, and the excess nutrients can cause problems with absorption. This is similar to the hard water cause.

How to Fix: Make sure you’re following the instructions for your chosen fertilizer. If in doubt, a good rule of thumb is “weekly, weakly.” This will ensure you’re not applying too much.

You should also avoid giving your orchid fertilizer while it’s flowering. Wait until it becomes dormant again before feeding it.

Lack of Nutrients

If your orchid’s leaves are turning yellow at the tips, this can indicate a nutrient deficiency. You’ll see yellow spots or patches around the tip and edges of the leaf.

The most common missing nutrient is potassium, which supports your plant’s metabolism and helps it to grow roots. It’s especially important during spring and summer when your orchid is growing fastest.

How to Fix: Make sure you’re applying a balanced fertilizer. Choose one that’s formulated for your specific type of orchid.

Follow the instructions, and you can be sure that your orchid is getting the right amount of nutrients. Don’t use too much, as this can harm your orchid.

Leaves Yellowing & Falling Off Naturally

Many popular orchids such as Phalaenopsis develop yellow leaves naturally as they age. So if you have an older plant, there’s nothing to worry about.

These leaves will eventually fall off and decompose. Your orchid does this to make space for new leaves, and so it can recycle nutrients from the old ones.

How to Fix: The best thing to do is simply wait for the plant to shed these old leaves.

If you prefer, you can trim them off with a sharp blade once they look like they’re about to die. However, this isn’t necessary and could harm your plant if you do it wrong.

So we recommend waiting for them to drop naturally. Let your orchid do its thing!

Summary & Cheat Sheet

It can take a bit of practice to tell the difference between these problems, but once you can, they’ll become super simple to fix.

Here’s a summary of the top nine causes of yellow leaves:

We hope you found this care guide useful. Did we miss anything? Let us know in the comments below!

The post Orchid Leaves Turning Yellow: Is This Normal? appeared first on Brilliant Orchids.

Learn to watch your orchid’s leaves closely for signs the plant isn’t getting the care it needs. If caught in time, it’s generally possible to fix wrinkled orchid leaves.

What Do Healthy Orchid Leaves Look Like?

Before you can identify problematic leaves, you first must learn what healthy leaves look like on an orchid plant.

While other plants may display quite dark or light green leaves, a healthy orchid leaf is always going to be a bright olive green color.

Healthy orchid leaves should also be plump and buoyant, extending out from the stalk without aid.

Fixing Wrinkled Orchid Leaves

This is all about matching the symptom to the solution. Each of these symptoms can typically be remedied by taking certain specific care steps.

Limp Leaves

When an orchid’s leaves grow limp, the typical solution leads back to improper watering.

If you want to diagnose whether the issue is over-watering or under-watering, it is helpful to examine your orchid’s roots.

Dry, wrinkled, brittle, or shriveled roots may indicate under-watering. Brown, mushy, soggy, or rotted roots can mean you’re over-watering. In the latter case, there could also be a secondary issue developing with root rot, a common orchid fungus.

However, in either case, the end result is that no water is getting from the roots to the leaves.

The first thing to do is to avoid removing the wrinkled orchid leaves even though they may look unsightly. They may still be helping the plant in other ways to gain nutrients and protection.

Instead, do your best to gently remove dead or rotted roots, using sterile scissors to do so. Apply sterilizing solution over the wounds and repot in fresh, sterile potting media.

Adjust your watering according to your healing plant’s needs and supplement with extra humidity, which your orchid can take in through the leaves until the roots heal.

Make sure to read our watering guide and you’ll have no problems!

Leathery Orchid Leaves

If the leaves are leathery, this is commonly another sign of a watering problem.

This can happen when the orchid isn’t getting enough water or the roots are compromised so that they cannot take up sufficient water to send to the leaves. A leathery, dehydrated appearance is often the result.

Another common cause of leathery orchid leaves is disintegrating potting media.

In either case, it is essential to use sterile tools to remove any dead or rotted roots and then repot your orchid in fresh, sterile media. Increase the ambient humidity and adjust watering as needed based on the underlying cause.

Curly Leaves

One of the most frequent culprits in the case of curly orchid leaves is using the wrong potting media or leaving your orchid potted in disintegrating potting media.

Novice orchid growers, in particular, may not yet realize orchids don’t grow in traditional potting soil, which crowds and suffocates the roots. Switching to an orchid-appropriate sterile potting media may cure this issue.

Another common cause of curling leaves is pests. Microscopic pests like aphids or fungi like Fusarium wilt can cause leaf dehydration, which in turn causes wilting.

You can remove aphids and other small pests by hand or using a forceful water spray. Fungi typically require sterile removal of the infected areas and repotting in a sterile potting media.

Leaves with Brown Tips

When your orchid’s leaves start to turn brown at the tips, the most likely cause is either over-fertilization or fungus.

Here, repotting in a sterile potting media will be necessary no matter which it is. If the root cause is a fungal infection, you may need to use tools to excise the infected areas before repotting.

Other Similar Orchid Problems

While most orchid species are not as difficult to care for as their reputation might suggest, they can still put you through a learning curve.

These are similar issues that many growers face in the course of learning to care for their plants.

Wrinkled, Dry or Shriveled Roots

When an orchid’s root system has gone without adequate hydration for some time, the roots will start to shrink, wither, and dry out.

If the area is humid, the leaves can take in some moisture. As a result, it can take longer for you to notice that your orchid isn’t receiving enough hydration at the roots.

Orchids can be salvaged even if the roots have died, but it takes patience.

Wilting Blooms

Wilting blooms are a common sight at the end of a blooming cycle. Most orchid species will only produce blooms once per year (twice at most).

After anywhere from a week to six months, those blooms will naturally start to wilt and will eventually detach from the plant and fall off.

However, if they start to wilt and wither before even opening, a common issue called bud blast is the likely culprit. Stressed-out orchids may drop un-opened buds to conserve resources.

Leaves Turning Dark or Yellow

Orchid leaves that are dark green are not getting enough light. Very light-colored green leaves can indicate sun damage.

Adjusting the light source and proximity (orchids prefer indirect light) can address this issue, although it will take some time to see the results.

The post How To Fix Wrinkled Orchid Leaves appeared first on Brilliant Orchids.

Knowledgable, careful pruning can make the difference between prize blooms and bare stalks year after year.

It can even encourage your orchid plant to re-bloom!

Why Do Orchids Need Pruning?

Although orchids have some specific care requirements, they need pruning for the same fundamental reasons as all other plants:

• Pruning keeps your orchid healthy. It also gives you a great chance to give your orchid a once-over to spot any unfolding issues while they are still minor and fixable.

• Another big benefit of orchid pruning is to remove diseased or dead matter. This tissue may be harboring pests or fungi, or could simply be stressing the plant out and using up nutrients.

• One of the most exciting benefits of pruning is to get your orchid to rebloom.
  

What Is an Orchid Spike?

Before you start pruning, it’s helpful to understand what an orchid “spike” is.

In orchids, the word “spike” denotes the stem that attaches a bloom (flower) to the plant stalk. This small bit of green is much more important than its humble appearance might suggest.

Right beneath the base of the spike (where it’s attached to the stem) is where the nodes are located. These triangle-shaped nodes are the sites of potential new blooms. One of the aims of pruning an orchid is to encourage it to rebloom through these nodes by trimming back the spike.

New orchid growers often get spikes and roots mixed up. They can look quite similar, although the exact appearance varies depending on the orchid species. With a bit of practice, you’ll learn what they look like on your orchid.

How to Prune an Orchid: Step by Step

Before You Start

Before you start pruning your orchid, you will need pruning shears (or scissors), a pot, and orchid potting media.

Here are some good pruning shears we recommend. We’re a big fan of Fiskars, who make reliable, high-quality shears that last a long time:

Once you have your shears and pot, you need to sterilize them. We recommend isopropyl alcohol for this, as it’s safer and more effective than vinegar or bleach. It’s important to always spray on some sterilizing treatment at the point of any cuts to protect your orchid from pests and disease.

Step 1: Examine Your Orchid

Examine your entire orchid thoroughly. Identify any particular areas (roots, spikes, leaves) that need pruning. Look for dead, dry, or decaying tissue that needs to be cut away.

Step 2: Prune Your Spikes

This will depend on the state of your orchid’s spikes:

• If the spike looks green and healthy, wait until the blooms have faded and fallen. Cut back the spike to within one inch of the stalk if you think the orchid will re-bud a second time before the dormant period in fall/winter.

• If the spike is healthy but it is close to the dormant season and you do not think the orchid will re-bud again, trim off the whole stalk to just one inch above the base of the plant itself, being careful to trim above any nodes that are present.

• If the spike is not healthy, trim off the entire spike just above the node (see next section here for more details about how to do this).
  

Step 3: Check the Leaves

If your orchid has leaves that are diseased or wilting, you can choose to cut away just the portion of the leaf that is affected or, if the majority of the leaf is affected, trim away the entire leaf just above the base of the plant.

Be careful not to cut away too many leaves, as this can cause unnecessary stress on the plant.

Remember to sterilize the site of any cuts you make, to prevent infection.

Step 4: Trim the Roots

Only prune an orchid’s roots when you are getting ready to repot the plant.

Typically, repotting is done no more than once a year, after the orchid has re-bloomed for the final time before the dormant period.

Trim away any dead or rotted roots before repotting in the sterilized potting media. Refrain from watering your orchid for at least a couple of days to allow the cuts to heal. You can increase ambient air humidity in the meantime if your orchid is dry.

What to Do With Brown, Yellow or Dead Stems

As long as the stems on your orchid remain vibrant, plump, and green, it is fine to leave them alone. Healthy orchids often re-bud from these stems.

But if you see that the stems are beginning to turn yellow or brown or to wither up and die off, it is time to prune them to reduce stress on the plant. Plus, compromised orchid spikes typically will not re-bud, so they need to be removed for the overall health of the plant.

Always use sterile scissors for pruning and apply some sterilizing solution to the pruning site to protect your orchid from pests and microbes.

Frequently Asked Questions

When Should I Prune My Orchid?

The best time to prune an orchid is after the blooms have faded and dropped. This will ensure that you don’t damage your plant.

How Often Does My Orchid Need Pruning?

In general, orchids do not need to be pruned frequently. Most orchids bloom once per year, although some species bloom more frequently than this.

Typically, you will only need to prune as often as your orchid blooms.

How Many Spikes Does My Orchid Have?

When you hear the terms “single spike” and “double spike,” this refers to the budding and blooming pattern of the orchid. The number of spikes and quantity of blooms can vary from year to year.

For example, the popular and readily available Phalaenopsis orchid usually blooms from a single spike. But some Phalaenopsis will produce double spikes. Genetics and care can both impact the number of spikes and variance in the bloom patterns.

The post How To Prune An Orchid – Step By Step Guide appeared first on Brilliant Orchids.

Propagating orchids may seem like a challenge initially, but the process is actually quite simple.

What is Propagation?

Propagation is the process of taking a cutting from a plant, or dividing the plant itself in half, and then planting this new cutting. The cutting sprouts and an entirely new plant is created. Since propagation is an asexual means of reproduction, this plant will be a direct clone of the parent plant and will have all of the same features and characteristics.

Gardeners commonly use plant propagation for several reasons.

First, it is a perfect way for beginner orchid enthusiasts to grow their plant collection. Secondly, it helps to maintain plant size when plants have grown too large. The final reason people utilize propagation is that it produces clones. If a plant is particularly healthy or has produced a spectacular color or bloom, it can be a great idea to use propagation to make more of the same plants.

There are a few effective propagation methods to choose from. Gardeners can simply divide a large plant in half and plant each half separately. This is also known as rhizome propagation. You can also take stem cuttings or cuttings of aerial roots. Some orchid types periodically sprout baby offshoot plants, known as Keiki, and these can also be used in propagation.

Propagation vs. Seeds

People may wonder what the difference is between propagation and raising a plant from seed.

Using seeds is a method of sexual reproduction, in that two different plants will have cross-pollinated to produce a new plant with some characteristics of both of the parent plants. Raising plants from seeds can be challenging because seedlings are so delicate.

Propagation, on the other hand, is often much quicker than waiting for seeds to germinate and then raising those seedlings. The gardener also knows precisely what the propagated plant will be like, as it will be identical to the parent plant.

Depending on the method used, propagation can be ideal for beginner gardeners because it’s much more straightforward. Again, it can help beginners expand their plant collections without needing to purchase new plants or seeds.

Propagation Methods

Deciding which method to use depends a lot on the type of orchid being propagated.

Monopodial orchids, such as the Phalaenopsis and Vanda varieties, have one tall, vertical stem, and aerial roots often grow from this stem. They also have nodes at the base of each stem that occasionally develop into new offshoot plants called Keiki.

Sympodial orchids, on the other hand, grow along a long, horizontal stem called a rhizome. Roots grow from the bottom of the rhizome, and pseudobulbs, which store water, grow from the top of the rhizome. Common examples of sympodial orchids are Oncidium, Cymbidium, Paphiopedilums, Dendrobium, and Cattleya.

The propagation methods of division, back bulb propagation, and stem cutting propagation work well with sympodial orchids. Monopodial orchids, however, do well when Keiki propagation or aerial root propagation is used.

Plant Division

Large orchid plants can be split into different sections, from which several new plants can be grown. Before cutting the plant, carefully examine the root structure to determine where to make the cuts. Split sympodial orchids into sections of about three to four inches. Each section should include at least three mature pseudobulbs.

You can perform division using a clean, sharp knife, a pair of shears, or even by gently pulling the plant apart. In many cases, the plant will have a natural area where it splits easily, and it’s a good idea to follow that division as much as possible.

Once the plant is divided, it can be easily repotted. It’s important to remove any dead roots or leaves. You should also remove old pseudobulbs. The new, smaller plants should be cared for in the same way that the old orchid was.

This type of propagation is also known as rhizome propagation. Essentially, it’s the plant’s rhizome that is cut and split up during division propagation.

Back Bulbs

When dividing a sympodial orchid, back bulb propagation is also possible. Back bulbs are pseudobulbs which still serve to store water for the plant but are no longer producing roots or flowers.

You can separate the back bulb from the plant, either by itself or after dividing the plant. If the back bulb has an active eye, plant the eye about the potting medium. Once it’s replanted, the back bulb can be induced into rooting. Some back bulbs may sprout within weeks, whereas others may remain dormant for up to two years.

Back bulb propagation is an excellent way to create young plants from favored orchids, but it’s also one of the slowest propagation methods. New plants will not be mature, but instead will be tiny sprouts, which can take years to grow fully.

Keikis

Monopodial orchids sometimes sprout offshoots called Keiki. These offshoots develop from nodes on the orchid, usually just above the root structure or off the stem of the main plant.

It’s best to wait for the Keiki to develop leaves and to grow roots of at least an inch long before cutting it carefully away from the main plant. If possible, the Keiki should be left until the leaves and roots are two to three inches long.

Keiki can also be encouraged to grow on an orchid by using Keiki paste. This is a paste that contains cytokinin, which is a hormone that induces plant growth through cell division.

You can purchase Keiki paste from many garden retailers, as well as from Amazon:

If you prefer, you can also make it at home. To make it, mix one milligram of cytokinin, sold as BAP or Benzylaminopurine, with one gram of warmed lanolin. Be sure to wear protective gloves and safety glasses and work in a well-ventilated area, as BAP is an eye and skin irritant.

Once you’ve made or purchased the paste, find a suitable node on the orchid. Nodes feel like a joint in the stem and are generally brown in color. With a clean pair of scissors or a knife, cut off just enough of the node so that it feels even with the rest of the stem.

With a wooden chopstick or a cotton swab, scoop out a small amount of Keiki paste. Again, be sure to wear gloves while doing this. Apply the paste to the open node area.

Keiki paste works within a few weeks. However, sometimes a flower stalk will grow where you applied the Keiki paste instead of a Keiki, so it’s not always a sure bet.

Aerial Roots

Aerial roots are long roots that grow off the main stem of a monopodial orchid.

These roots can be carefully trimmed from the main stem, and then planted in a new pot. The roots will anchor themselves into the soil and, eventually, a new plant will sprout.

Stem Cuttings

Stem cutting propagation is the final propagation method. This method can be used on any orchid that has new growth areas or nodes. For this reason, it’s best to use this method only on sympodial orchids.

Once the plant has finished flowering, select a stem that’s between 10 and 12 inches long. Cut it off at the base by using clean scissors or a sharp knife. Then divide the stem into sections between two and three inches long. Make sure each section has a new growth area or a node somewhere along its length.

Lay each section in damp sphagnum moss. Keep the moss damp while the stem sections root. Covering the potting tray with plastic wrap can encourage high humidity, which is helpful in orchid growth.

The post How to Propagate Orchids: Complete Guide appeared first on Brilliant Orchids.

This can be surprising for some people, especially those who aren’t familiar with the difference between a dormant orchid and a dead one. While the flowers will only last a few weeks, it’s important to continue caring for your orchid in its dormant phase. Maintain it well, and your plant will give you many more years of blooms.

Let’s dive a bit deeper, so you can learn how long to expect an orchid to live, and how to maximize its lifespan.

Lifecycle of Orchids

The lifecycle of an orchid consists of five distinct stages of development. These are very similar to many other plants, and in order, these are germination, growth, flowering (blossoming), fruiting, and seed dispersal.

The cycle continues annually as new seeds are dispersed from the flowers. The seeds are then germinated and grow into new orchid plants. They are hardy plants that have reliable lifecycles.

Growing Orchids Indoors vs. Outdoors

Orchids are easy plants to keep indoors and are traditionally thought of as an ornamental houseplant. They make beautiful potted plants that are pretty low-maintenance. Growing them indoors is actually the preferred method if you live in a warm or hot climate.

However, orchids can also grow outside under the shade of lofty trees. In fact, if you are in a cooler climate, then orchids thrive when growing outdoors.

Orchids grown indoors will flourish and bloom each year as long as you water them properly. Those growing outdoors will still prosper, but there are more threats from pests and other external factors.

So it’s likely that your orchid will live longer indoors, on average.

Maximum Lifespan of Orchids

Basically, as long as something does not kill the main structure of the orchid plant, these resilient plants can live indefinitely. It is not uncommon for an orchid plant to live beyond one hundred years or more.

That said, there are some threats to the plant that will halt its growth or even kill it. These may depend on the type of orchid you own.

Let’s take a look at some of the most common types of orchid.

Phalaenopsis

The Phalaenopsis orchid is a popular type of monopodial orchid. This means the orchid has a central axis around the stem and throughout its life, leaves will grow from the top of this shaft.

The lower leaves may begin to shed, but this is natural since these types of orchids continue to regenerate throughout their life. The axis will also continue to grow, as well as new leaves, and roots of the plant will grow indefinitely.

A significant threat to this orchid is what’s called a terminal spike. If a terminal spike appears on the orchid’s axis, then new leaves will not continue to grow, but the plant will still live on.

Cymbidium

Cymbidium orchids have a hard portion called a pseudobulb. These are also known as flower spikes that emerge along the central axis of the stem. This protects the blossom and leaves of the plant, making the orchid more resistant to pests and disease.

These plants rarely have to deal with any major health issues.

Dendrobium

Dendrobium orchids are among the most adaptable plants in the entire plant kingdom. Their roots creep over boulders, trees, and other surfaces. Like Cymbidium orchids, Dendrobiums have pseudobulbs that protect their leaves and seldom have issues with continued growth.

So, in summary, most types of orchids can live for a very long time. That is, as long as you care for the plant and don’t neglect it. Keep it safe from pests and water it correctly, and it should grow and prosper for many years.

However, the Phalaenopsis orchid can encounter issues such as terminal spikes, which you have no control over. Orchids that have pseudobulbs such as Cymbidiums and Dendrobiums tend to adapt well to any kind of environment.

How to Make an Orchid Bloom

Many orchid growers think that when the blooms fall off, then the plant is dead or dying, but this is not true!

This is just a natural phase of the orchid known as the dormant season. The season usually begins in August and lasts until January. The blossoms will be back around February or March, so just be patient, and they’ll come back.

If you don’t want to wait, there are some nifty tips to help you get your orchid to bloom again.

• Your plant should have sun during the day, and you should water it regularly. In addition to that, make sure the temperature goes down by about 15 degrees at nighttime. This will encourage your orchids to bloom again.
• Another trick is to cut off any dead stems from the plant as it might be detrimental to continued flowering.
• A third tip is to use some flower food, which you can find at any gardening store. Add this to the soil to maximize the chance of your orchid blooming again.

The post How Long Do Orchids Live? appeared first on Brilliant Orchids.

What Are Miltonia Orchids?

Miltonia orchids have medium-sized blooms and narrow, flexible leaves. They come in many different species and hybrid varieties, and they tend to be pretty easy to grow.

These orchids have both small-flower and large-flower varieties. They tend to have one or more branches, with roughly five flowers on each. They also have a beautiful scent that people consider one of their best assets.

Miltonia Versus Miltoniopsis

Many growers use the terms Miltonia and Miltoniopsis as if they are the same flower. But they are actually not the same thing.

Miltonia and Miltoniopsis are two different genera of orchids. Miltonia mostly originated in Brazil, whereas Miltoniopsis are primarily Columbian flowers, which is why they can handle cooler temperatures well. Miltoniopsis flowers are generally considered the typical pansy orchid, whereas Miltonia are more like Oncidium.

What Do These Orchids Look Like?

Although many people use these two terms interchangeably, the two flowers look quite different.

It is the Miltoniopsis, not the Miltonia, that looks like what most people think of when they hear the term “pansy orchid.” Miltonia orchids have two leaves on each side of the pseudobulb. The Miltoniopsis has only one.

Miltonia flowers have round pseudobulbs that are quite far apart. Meanwhile, Miltoniopsis have flatter pseudobulbs that tend to cluster tightly together.

Both are elegant and very attractive flowers, but the Miltoniopsis flowers are big and showy, making them quite an eye-catcher. Miltonia flowers are more slender but are still very attractive.

What Colors Are Available?

Because there are now hybrids of the Miltonia flower, they can come in various colors and in fact, some of these flowers contain more than one color on the same bloom. Miltonia flowers come in colors such as pink, red, purple, yellow, and white.

Their pseudobulbs, along with foliage, tend to be gray or blue-green in color. They can grow one to two spikes simultaneously or in succession.

Common Species

There are hundreds of species in the Miltonia and Miltoniopsis genera, but a few of the more common ones include:

• Miltonia clowesii (a gorgeous brownish-purple flower)
• Miltonia cuneata (wedge-shaped, light-colored blooms)
• Miltonia flavescens (light-green “spiky” blooms with a white flower)
• Miltonia regnellii (a beautiful white orchid highlighted in purple)
• Miltonia russelliana (light-colored blooms with a wide purplish-pink stripe)
• Miltonia spectabilis (lovely light-pink and dark-pink orchids)

If you’re a beginner, it is good to start with a stronger type of orchid, such as a hybrid variety. The ease of growing also varies depending on where you live, and local temperatures and conditions. It’s worth doing a little bit of research to find the Miltonia flower that is easiest to grow in your part of the world.

How to Care for a Miltonia

Basic care for Miltonia orchids includes the following:

• Make sure they get light, but not direct sunlight. 
• In the spring and summer months, the plant should be shielded from the sun.
• Never place the plant over or near a heater.
• Miltonia orchids prefer room temperature during the day and cooler temperatures at night.
• Keep the soil damp, but never dry or too wet.
• You can place orchid food in water and feed it to them monthly in the summer and every two months during wintertime.
• If you place these orchids outside or on a balcony, make sure they are in the shade and not in direct heat.

Of course, with different varieties come different instructions on how to take care of them, so always follow the directions on the plant’s label.

Light, Temperature, and Humidity

Indirect sunlight works best with these flowers, so placing the pots near an east or shaded south-facing window will help them thrive. When the outside temperature gets above 80-degrees Fahrenheit, increase the amount of shading.

If you see the leaves turning dark green, improve the lighting because pansy orchids’ leaves should be light green in color.

The leaves on your pansy orchids may also turn a reddish or yellowish-green color. In this case, you should increase the shading because this means they are getting too much light and warmth.

They also do best in temperatures in the 70- to 85-degree range, and in the 55- to 65-degree range at night. These flowers prefer a humidity level of 55% to 65%. You may need a humidity tray if you grow them indoors.

Potting Medium

When it comes to potting media for Miltonia orchids, you do have a few different choices.

A general bark or an orchid mix (moss) does well with these flowers. This is mostly because these orchids are epiphytic, which means they live on trees and, therefore, they tend not to do well in ordinary soil.

When you’re looking for the perfect potting medium for your Miltonia orchids, consider its capacity to drain well, which is an essential feature for these flowers.

Watering

Most pansy orchids need watering twice a week, but they may need watering every two to three days during the warm summer months.

If you water them in the morning, the soil will be partly dry by nightfall. You should never let the flowers just sit in water because overwatering them is dangerous. On the other hand, you should also never let these orchids dry out completely.

Pansy orchids also do much better when you fertilize them every two weeks because this gives them the nutrients they need to grow.

Repotting a Miltonia

Once again, Miltonia are easy to grow, but that doesn’t mean they can go without any type of care. It is wise to repot these flowers after they bloom each year. At a minimum, Miltonia orchids should be repotted every two years, but once a year is much better for most of these plants.

Blooming

For the most part, Miltonia orchids bloom in the spring for roughly five weeks. However, some varieties will bloom again in the fall and give you twice-a-year color and enjoyment.

If you’re curious about which varieties bloom when and for how long, you can research them online before deciding which one to purchase.

The post Miltonia and Miltoniopsis (Pansy Orchids): Care Guide & Pictures appeared first on Brilliant Orchids.

They also smell fantastic!

So how often can we expect them to bloom? And can we give them a helping hand to make them flower again?

Do Orchids Rebloom?

Even if your orchids are already flowerless, you can still tell what type they are with a little research. Once you learn this, you can suitably care for the plant. Most orchids bloom one to two times per year, and these blooms can last anywhere from 7 days to 120 days or more.

Many orchids bloom from January to March, although some bloom during the fall months. Most orchids are perennials and keep their leaves for many years, while some shed their leaves annually.

Once the flowers fall off of the plant, it is considered to be in a dormant stage. This stage typically lasts six to nine months, so don’t throw away your orchids just because they’re not currently blooming, because they will return!

How Long Do Orchids Last?

Most orchids have flowers that bloom from two to three months, but they do not die just because the flowers fall off. If taken care of in the right way month after month, many orchids can last for decades.

During the dormant stage, you must continue to care for them properly until they start to bloom again. Here are some things you can do during this period:

• Keep your orchids in a place where it stays between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Use a fertilizer on them regularly; preferably a 20-20-20 balanced houseplant fertilizer.
• Once a plant reaches 5″, place it against a spike, so it grows correctly.
• Make sure it continues to get the right amount of indirect sunlight and water.
• On the weeks you fertilize the plant, you can skip watering.
• Keep in mind that the plant is just resting and not dead; be patient because it will return!

If the flowers don’t start to grow back when they should, simply move the plant to another location. It could be the location and corresponding light, humidity, and so on, that is preventing it from blooming again.

Caring for Orchids After Flowering

Orchids are found naturally in tropical areas, but that doesn’t mean they love water. In fact, it is crucial not to put too much water in the soil of these plants. You shouldn’t even mist them with water in most cases.

After flowering, there are a few things you can do to create the perfect environment for them:

•  Always use a flower pot with drainage holes; this serves several purposes, including more efficient drainage, less root rot and wilted leaves, and less salt buildup in the pot.
• Moss-based potting works best because it retains moisture better.
• Always place pots in the south or east windows in your home.
• Your home’s temperature should remain 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit with 40% to 60% humidity.
• Gentle air circulation contributes to orchids’ growth (an oscillating fan or open windows).
• Orchids should be watered from several times a week to once every several weeks, depending on the moisture in the soil.
• Fertilize them once a month when they’re flowering.

Every few days, you can insert several fingers into the soil, then remove them and rub your fingers together. If you feel moisture afterward, there is no need to water the plant. Once you rub your fingers together and they’re dry, it is time to water your orchids once again.

Pests and Diseases

In addition to these things, you should also be aware of any pests or diseases that might present themselves during this phase.

Many bugs can be removed by hand. You can wash the leaves and stems with mild soap and water afterward to make sure they’re all gone. You can also use a pesticide or fungicide if the problems continue, but make sure the brand you buy is made explicitly for orchids and won’t kill them in the process.

How to Make Orchids Bloom Again

After the flowers have fallen off, you can prune the plant because in most cases, orchids will not bloom again on the same stem. You can cut the stems just above the bottom two nodes if you have a standard Phalaenopsis orchid.

If your orchids have pseudobulbs (thickened stems at the base of each growth), cut them just above the pseudobulb. Finally, cut the stem off at the top of the potting soil for all other varieties of orchids.

The critical thing to remember is that your orchids still need some TLC in the dormant stage. If you take good care of them when they are “resting,” they should have no problems blooming again and again in the future.

The post How Often Do Orchids Bloom? (and How Can I Make it Happen?) appeared first on Brilliant Orchids.