It can happen for a variety of reasons and can be quite concerning at first. However, this is usually pretty easy to fix, and you shouldn’t worry about it too much.

Sometimes you don’t need to do anything at all!

This guide covers the nine most common causes of yellow leaves. Here’s how to identify and fix each one:

Too Much Direct Light (Sunburn)

The number one most common cause of yellow leaves is sunburn due to too much direct sunlight.

Orchids generally need to be in a bright location, but not bathed in sunshine. However, some are more tolerant of light than others. The correct amount will depend on the genus (and sometimes exact species) of your orchid.

How to Fix: First, check what type of orchid you have. Its light requirements will depend on its natural habitat. Some orchids naturally grow under thick tree cover and are used to having a lot of shade. Others thrive in the open and can tolerate more direct sunlight.

Move your orchid to a spot that’s a bit more shaded if you suspect this to be the problem. It’s generally best to avoid north-facing windows, as these let in the most light.

Hard Water

When watering your orchid, the type of water you’re using might not be the first thing on your mind. However, this can actually make a big difference.

Many people live in areas with hard tap water, which has high levels of dissolved minerals such as magnesium and calcium. These can cause problems with your plant’s absorption of nutrients.

As a result, your orchid can develop yellow leaves.

How to Fix: There are a few ways to fix this problem:

• Use distilled water to water your orchid, as this is very pure.
• Use bottled water, which is generally quite soft compared to tap water.
• Invest in a water softener, which can remove some of the minerals from your tap water.

Water softeners can be quite expensive, but they’re very effective and are a great investment. They also help with chores like washing dishes and doing laundry, as you’ll need less detergent.

Over-watering (Root Rot)

Over-watering or poor drainage can cause your orchid’s roots to rot. As a result, your orchid will be unable to absorb nutrients effectively, and its leaves will turn yellow.

How to Fix: Only water your orchid when the top inch of the potting medium is dry and the roots are white.

You should also check the pot you’re using. Orchids need to be grown in pots with plenty of drainage holes to ensure proper water drainage.

If you suspect the yellow leaves are due to over-watering, your orchid may be suffering from root rot. Inspect the roots to see if the plant still has some healthy green roots.

If so, trim off the rotted roots and repot your plant in fresh potting mix. Don’t water the soil for the first week after repotting, just lightly mist the leaves so the roots will have a chance to recover.

Be sure to check out our watering guide if you’d like to learn how to avoid common watering issues like this.

Under-watering (Dehydration)

If your orchid isn’t getting enough water, it will become dehydrated. This can cause yellow leaves, which will also appear dry or shriveled.

This issue is more common with some types of orchid than others.

Orchids with large aerial root systems absorb moisture from the air and can often go for ages without being watered. Others will need more frequent watering to avoid dehydration.

How to Fix: Check your orchid’s roots to confirm the problem:

• If they’re a healthy white color, but the leaves are yellow and wrinkled, this could be an under-watering problem.
• If the roots are going a bit brown and dry, this is a sure sign that they need more water.
• When they’re black or rotten, this is due to over-watering instead. Refer to the section above to fix this.

If you’ve determined that your orchid needs more water, check out our watering guide for the correct techniques. A good rule of thumb is to wait until the top inch of your potting mix is dry before watering.

You should also check what type of orchid you have, along with its specific watering requirements.

Low Temperatures

If your room temperature is too cold, it can cause your orchid’s metabolism to slow down. This can cause problems with its biological processes and result in yellowing leaves.

How to Fix: Adjust your thermostat, or move your orchid to a more suitable spot.

In general, the ideal temperatures for growing orchids are between 65 and 80 F during the day and slightly cooler at night. So if you feel comfortable, your orchid probably will too.

As always, this depends on which type of orchid you have. Your plant will expect to be in an environment similar to its natural habitat.

Diseases (Yellow Leaves With Spots)

If your orchid’s leaves are turning yellow with black spots, this can indicate a bacterial or fungal disease.

The most common cause is wet leaves or high humidity. This excess moisture provides the perfect environment for diseases to thrive.

You’ll need to act fast to prevent it from spreading.

How to Fix: The infected foliage must be cut away. It’s difficult to distinguish between bacterial and fungal infections, so pruning is usually the best course of action.

Use a clean, sharp blade to cut off the infected tissue and about an inch of clean, green area.

If you suspect it’s a fungal infection, apply a fungicide to the cut surface. This will prevent the disease from reoccurring.

Too Much Fertilizer

Applying too much fertilizer is a common mistake, especially for beginners. It’s meant to help your orchid grow faster, so it can be tempting to use it every time you water your plant.

However, you can have too much of a good thing. Orchids generally don’t need a lot of fertilizer, and the excess nutrients can cause problems with absorption. This is similar to the hard water cause.

How to Fix: Make sure you’re following the instructions for your chosen fertilizer. If in doubt, a good rule of thumb is “weekly, weakly.” This will ensure you’re not applying too much.

You should also avoid giving your orchid fertilizer while it’s flowering. Wait until it becomes dormant again before feeding it.

Lack of Nutrients

If your orchid’s leaves are turning yellow at the tips, this can indicate a nutrient deficiency. You’ll see yellow spots or patches around the tip and edges of the leaf.

The most common missing nutrient is potassium, which supports your plant’s metabolism and helps it to grow roots. It’s especially important during spring and summer when your orchid is growing fastest.

How to Fix: Make sure you’re applying a balanced fertilizer. Choose one that’s formulated for your specific type of orchid.

Follow the instructions, and you can be sure that your orchid is getting the right amount of nutrients. Don’t use too much, as this can harm your orchid.

Leaves Yellowing & Falling Off Naturally

Many popular orchids such as Phalaenopsis develop yellow leaves naturally as they age. So if you have an older plant, there’s nothing to worry about.

These leaves will eventually fall off and decompose. Your orchid does this to make space for new leaves, and so it can recycle nutrients from the old ones.

How to Fix: The best thing to do is simply wait for the plant to shed these old leaves.

If you prefer, you can trim them off with a sharp blade once they look like they’re about to die. However, this isn’t necessary and could harm your plant if you do it wrong.

So we recommend waiting for them to drop naturally. Let your orchid do its thing!

Summary & Cheat Sheet

It can take a bit of practice to tell the difference between these problems, but once you can, they’ll become super simple to fix.

Here’s a summary of the top nine causes of yellow leaves:

We hope you found this care guide useful. Did we miss anything? Let us know in the comments below!

The post Orchid Leaves Turning Yellow: Is This Normal? appeared first on Brilliant Orchids.

This can be surprising for some people, especially those who aren’t familiar with the difference between a dormant orchid and a dead one. While the flowers will only last a few weeks, it’s important to continue caring for your orchid in its dormant phase. Maintain it well, and your plant will give you many more years of blooms.

Let’s dive a bit deeper, so you can learn how long to expect an orchid to live, and how to maximize its lifespan.

Lifecycle of Orchids

The lifecycle of an orchid consists of five distinct stages of development. These are very similar to many other plants, and in order, these are germination, growth, flowering (blossoming), fruiting, and seed dispersal.

The cycle continues annually as new seeds are dispersed from the flowers. The seeds are then germinated and grow into new orchid plants. They are hardy plants that have reliable lifecycles.

Growing Orchids Indoors vs. Outdoors

Orchids are easy plants to keep indoors and are traditionally thought of as an ornamental houseplant. They make beautiful potted plants that are pretty low-maintenance. Growing them indoors is actually the preferred method if you live in a warm or hot climate.

However, orchids can also grow outside under the shade of lofty trees. In fact, if you are in a cooler climate, then orchids thrive when growing outdoors.

Orchids grown indoors will flourish and bloom each year as long as you water them properly. Those growing outdoors will still prosper, but there are more threats from pests and other external factors.

So it’s likely that your orchid will live longer indoors, on average.

Maximum Lifespan of Orchids

Basically, as long as something does not kill the main structure of the orchid plant, these resilient plants can live indefinitely. It is not uncommon for an orchid plant to live beyond one hundred years or more.

That said, there are some threats to the plant that will halt its growth or even kill it. These may depend on the type of orchid you own.

Let’s take a look at some of the most common types of orchid.

Phalaenopsis

The Phalaenopsis orchid is a popular type of monopodial orchid. This means the orchid has a central axis around the stem and throughout its life, leaves will grow from the top of this shaft.

The lower leaves may begin to shed, but this is natural since these types of orchids continue to regenerate throughout their life. The axis will also continue to grow, as well as new leaves, and roots of the plant will grow indefinitely.

A significant threat to this orchid is what’s called a terminal spike. If a terminal spike appears on the orchid’s axis, then new leaves will not continue to grow, but the plant will still live on.

Cymbidium

Cymbidium orchids have a hard portion called a pseudobulb. These are also known as flower spikes that emerge along the central axis of the stem. This protects the blossom and leaves of the plant, making the orchid more resistant to pests and disease.

These plants rarely have to deal with any major health issues.

Dendrobium

Dendrobium orchids are among the most adaptable plants in the entire plant kingdom. Their roots creep over boulders, trees, and other surfaces. Like Cymbidium orchids, Dendrobiums have pseudobulbs that protect their leaves and seldom have issues with continued growth.

So, in summary, most types of orchids can live for a very long time. That is, as long as you care for the plant and don’t neglect it. Keep it safe from pests and water it correctly, and it should grow and prosper for many years.

However, the Phalaenopsis orchid can encounter issues such as terminal spikes, which you have no control over. Orchids that have pseudobulbs such as Cymbidiums and Dendrobiums tend to adapt well to any kind of environment.

How to Make an Orchid Bloom

Many orchid growers think that when the blooms fall off, then the plant is dead or dying, but this is not true!

This is just a natural phase of the orchid known as the dormant season. The season usually begins in August and lasts until January. The blossoms will be back around February or March, so just be patient, and they’ll come back.

If you don’t want to wait, there are some nifty tips to help you get your orchid to bloom again.

• Your plant should have sun during the day, and you should water it regularly. In addition to that, make sure the temperature goes down by about 15 degrees at nighttime. This will encourage your orchids to bloom again.
• Another trick is to cut off any dead stems from the plant as it might be detrimental to continued flowering.
• A third tip is to use some flower food, which you can find at any gardening store. Add this to the soil to maximize the chance of your orchid blooming again.

The post How Long Do Orchids Live? appeared first on Brilliant Orchids.

They also smell fantastic!

So how often can we expect them to bloom? And can we give them a helping hand to make them flower again?

Do Orchids Rebloom?

Even if your orchids are already flowerless, you can still tell what type they are with a little research. Once you learn this, you can suitably care for the plant. Most orchids bloom one to two times per year, and these blooms can last anywhere from 7 days to 120 days or more.

Many orchids bloom from January to March, although some bloom during the fall months. Most orchids are perennials and keep their leaves for many years, while some shed their leaves annually.

Once the flowers fall off of the plant, it is considered to be in a dormant stage. This stage typically lasts six to nine months, so don’t throw away your orchids just because they’re not currently blooming, because they will return!

How Long Do Orchids Last?

Most orchids have flowers that bloom from two to three months, but they do not die just because the flowers fall off. If taken care of in the right way month after month, many orchids can last for decades.

During the dormant stage, you must continue to care for them properly until they start to bloom again. Here are some things you can do during this period:

• Keep your orchids in a place where it stays between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Use a fertilizer on them regularly; preferably a 20-20-20 balanced houseplant fertilizer.
• Once a plant reaches 5″, place it against a spike, so it grows correctly.
• Make sure it continues to get the right amount of indirect sunlight and water.
• On the weeks you fertilize the plant, you can skip watering.
• Keep in mind that the plant is just resting and not dead; be patient because it will return!

If the flowers don’t start to grow back when they should, simply move the plant to another location. It could be the location and corresponding light, humidity, and so on, that is preventing it from blooming again.

Caring for Orchids After Flowering

Orchids are found naturally in tropical areas, but that doesn’t mean they love water. In fact, it is crucial not to put too much water in the soil of these plants. You shouldn’t even mist them with water in most cases.

After flowering, there are a few things you can do to create the perfect environment for them:

•  Always use a flower pot with drainage holes; this serves several purposes, including more efficient drainage, less root rot and wilted leaves, and less salt buildup in the pot.
• Moss-based potting works best because it retains moisture better.
• Always place pots in the south or east windows in your home.
• Your home’s temperature should remain 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit with 40% to 60% humidity.
• Gentle air circulation contributes to orchids’ growth (an oscillating fan or open windows).
• Orchids should be watered from several times a week to once every several weeks, depending on the moisture in the soil.
• Fertilize them once a month when they’re flowering.

Every few days, you can insert several fingers into the soil, then remove them and rub your fingers together. If you feel moisture afterward, there is no need to water the plant. Once you rub your fingers together and they’re dry, it is time to water your orchids once again.

Pests and Diseases

In addition to these things, you should also be aware of any pests or diseases that might present themselves during this phase.

Many bugs can be removed by hand. You can wash the leaves and stems with mild soap and water afterward to make sure they’re all gone. You can also use a pesticide or fungicide if the problems continue, but make sure the brand you buy is made explicitly for orchids and won’t kill them in the process.

How to Make Orchids Bloom Again

After the flowers have fallen off, you can prune the plant because in most cases, orchids will not bloom again on the same stem. You can cut the stems just above the bottom two nodes if you have a standard Phalaenopsis orchid.

If your orchids have pseudobulbs (thickened stems at the base of each growth), cut them just above the pseudobulb. Finally, cut the stem off at the top of the potting soil for all other varieties of orchids.

The critical thing to remember is that your orchids still need some TLC in the dormant stage. If you take good care of them when they are “resting,” they should have no problems blooming again and again in the future.

The post How Often Do Orchids Bloom? (and How Can I Make it Happen?) appeared first on Brilliant Orchids.

However, they are more particular about care than many other types of orchid. They require lots of light, and you should take extra care when choosing a potting mix or repotting an Oncidium, due to their relatively fine roots.

In this care guide, we’re going to take a closer look at these wonderful plants and their care requirements.

Natural Habitat

An important first step in learning to care for any type of orchid is to understand the conditions in which it grows naturally.

Oncidiums grow in the wild, primarily in jungles of Central and South America, and the West Indies. You can find them growing high in the Andes, and in the Amazon rainforest.

The conditions you provide should mimic this environment. Think warm, humid, with plenty of indirect light through the tree cover, and you’re well on your way to knowing how to care for one.

Dancing Lady orchids are usually epiphytes, depending on the variety. This means that in the wild, they grow on trees by clinging to the bark. They can also sometimes grow on rocks.

Bear this in mind when choosing a potting mix. As we’ll see later, a combination of bark and moss tends to work well.

How to Care for an Oncidium Orchid

With their natural habitat in mind, let’s break down each care aspect in a bit more detail.

Light

Oncidiums require plenty of light, and although these orchids are more tolerant than other species, the light should be indirect. Remember, the light filters through the treetops in the wild, rather than striking the plant directly.

When grown indoors, these plants can be placed in an east-, west-, or south-facing window. This will often ensure similar lighting conditions. A good guideline is 2000 to 4000 footcandles of light.

If you want to check whether you’ve got this right, the most reliable way is to buy a light meter.

You can also use the “hand test” – on a bright, clear day, hold your hand about 12 inches away from the leaves of your plant. If the shadow cast by your hand is clear and dark, you’ll know you have enough light to support an Oncidium.

Too much direct light can cause sunburn. If you’re worried about this, you can buy a thin cloth screen to put over your window. This will diffuse the light, while still letting most of it through.

Related: How Much Light Do Orchids Need?

Temperature

Dancing Lady orchids prefer warm temperatures. The average temperature in the Amazon, for instance, is about 77 degrees Fahrenheit.

So, you should aim to keep the temperature around 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. You can use a standard household thermometer to measure this.

The temperature should not drop below 55 degrees Fahrenheit at night. It’s fine for the temperature to drop a bit, however, as that will help the plants bloom.

Humidity

Like most orchid species, Oncidium orchids prefer medium to high humidity. As epiphytic orchids, they absorb a lot of the moisture they need from humidity in the air, through their roots.

These plants should live in an area with at least 40 percent humidity, although humidity levels between 50 and 60 percent are ideal. Again, you can get a meter to measure this. These are often combined with a thermometer, which is handy.

If you need to, you can increase humidity using a humidifier or humidity tray. However, it’s important to maintain good airflow around the plants to prevent bacteria and rot.

Alternatively, you can keep your plant in one of the more humid rooms in your house, such as a kitchen or bathroom. Just make sure to check the actual humidity, temperature, and light levels there, as this varies from home to home.

Watering

Because they generally grow with their roots exposed to the air, Dancing Lady orchids require specific watering routines so as not to rot the roots. The roots should be allowed to nearly dry out between each watering session.

Plants with thin leaves will require slightly more water than those with water-retaining leaves.

To judge whether your plant needs more water, you can look at the pseudobulbs. These are a thickened part of the stem used for water storage. Oncidiums have large pseudobulbs at the base of the plant. Wrinkled pseudobulbs are a sign that the orchid needs more water.

To water your orchid, immerse the pot in water until the potting medium is soaked through. Then, drain it thoroughly and make sure there is no standing water left. This should take about 10 to 15 minutes. This watering pattern mimics the bouts of heavy rainfall in your orchid’s rainforest habitat.

Oncidiums don’t like too many minerals in their water, so distilled water is a good option. Make sure the water isn’t too cold or hot, as this can damage the roots.

Related: How to Water an Orchid: Care Guide

Potting Mix & Pot

The potting medium used for Oncidiums should be fairly loose and should drain easily. Because they have relatively fine roots, don’t use a very coarse mix as you would for a Phalaenopsis – go for a medium-grade mix instead.

A mix of bark and sphagnum moss in equal quantities works best. Osmunda fern fiber is another great option if you’re able to find it.

Pots should have several holes in them to promote drainage and airflow. You can find a variety of pots specifically for orchids, such as net pots and clear plastic pots, at your local garden store.

For Oncidiums, it’s best to pick a pot that’s slightly on the smaller side, as they prefer a snug fit.

Related: Orchid Potting Mix: Care Guide & Information

Related: Best Orchid Pots: Beginner’s Buying Guide

Repotting

Because Oncidium orchids prefer to be in tighter pots, repotting should be done infrequently. How often it needs to be done depends on the plant, but generally, they should only be repotted once every two years.

Repotting should be done after the growth season. Wait until the plant has finished blooming, to avoid damaging it.

These plants have extremely fragile roots, so take care when repotting an Oncidium orchid. Check out our repotting guide to learn how to do this safely.

Related: How to Repot an Orchid: Step by Step Guide

Blooms

Different species of Oncidium orchid bloom at different times throughout the year. Some species will even flower multiple times within the year.

Once the plant blooms, the flowers can last for a few weeks or even a few months. It is important not to trim the stems of the plant once the flowers have gone, as flowers often bloom on the same stems over and over.

If a plant isn’t blooming, it can be exposed to slightly colder nighttime temperatures. This may induce the plant to flower. Make sure the temperature stays above 55 degrees Fahrenheit.

Related: How Often Do Orchids Bloom? (And How Can I Make It Happen?)

Fertilizer

In addition, you can give your plant some fertilizer every 2 to 3 weeks, which will help provide it with the nutrients it needs. Use a 30-10-10 orchid fertilizer and dilute it to quarter to half strength.

Remember that it’s best to err on the side of underfeeding your orchid, as too much can burn the delicate roots.

Check out our fertilizer guide for more detail on how to choose the right type of fertilizer and apply it correctly:

Related: Orchid Fertilizer: Everything You Need to Know

Pruning

After the blooming season has finished, you can remove the old flowering spikes from your Oncidium. This will prevent the plant from wasting any further resources on them.

Sterilize your tools with boiling water and alcohol, to avoid the risk of bacterial or fungal infections. Using a sharp blade, carefully cut the spike close to the pseudobulb. Try to leave less than an inch of the spike.

If you’ve accidentally over-watered your orchid, you may find its pseudobulbs starting to go mushy and rotten. To stop the rot spreading, you may need to remove the rotten pseudobulb. Again, use a sharp sterile blade to do this and be careful not to remove too much healthy tissue.

Related: How to Prune an Orchid: Step by Step Guide

Propagation

The easiest way to propagate a Dancing Lady orchid is by division, once it grows large enough.

To do this, carefully remove your orchid from its pot. You may need to cut the pot away to avoid damaging the plant.

Then, start dividing your orchid into pieces with at least 3 to 4 pseudobulbs per piece. Be very careful not to damage the fragile roots. You can use a sterile blade to help, but only when necessary.

Repot these pieces in fresh potting mix and care for them just as you would with a new plant.

It’s also possible to use backbulbs to propagate an Oncidium. Other methods such as cuttings and Keikis are uncommon.

Related: How to Propagate Orchids: Complete Care Guide

Oncidium Care Summary & Cheat Sheet

Let’s recap what we just learned:

If you’d like to download this as a handy cheat sheet, right-click the image below and select “Save Image”:

We recommend printing it off and keeping it by your orchid. Please share it if you find it useful!

Care Video

If you’d like to see all this in action, check out this great YouTube video from MissOrchidGirl:

Frequently Asked Questions

Here are some common questions about Oncidiums:

Which Species Are Easiest to Grow?

Some species of Oncidium are easier to grow than others.

We really like the Sharry Baby, which is sometimes called the “chocolate orchid” due to its scent. This species is widely available and is great for beginners.

We also recommend Oncidium flexuosum, which requires less watering and fertilizer than most other species.

How Can I Make My Oncidium Bloom Again?

It takes a lot of resources for your plant to grow flowers, so it’s usually seasonal and you shouldn’t expect it to be in bloom all the time.

If your orchid hasn’t bloomed for a while, first you should check when this normally happens. This will vary depending on the exact species, even with the same genus. Look up your particular plant online and find out when to expect this.

You can try to induce blooming by lowering the temperature at night, and by applying fertilizer. Just make sure you don’t overdo this, and remember that the best way to get your orchid to flower is to give it the best all-round care.

Why Are My Plant’s Leaves Turning Yellow?

If your Dancing Lady orchid is starting to develop yellow leaves, there are a few possible causes.

You might be over-watering it and causing root rot. Check the roots to see whether this is the case, and make sure your pot and medium have sufficient drainage.

It’s also possible your orchid has sunburn due to too much direct sunlight. Make sure the light is indirect.

If you’re still not sure, check out our article about this common issue for more detail.

Do you have any secrets or tips for growing Oncidiums? Leave a comment below and let us know!

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The post Oncidium (Dancing Lady Orchid): In-Depth Care Guide appeared first on Brilliant Orchids.

These orchids have unique growing requirements, but caring for a Vanda is, once understood, quite straightforward. As always, our starting point is to take a look at their natural habitat. Then we will know how to provide a similar environment in our own home.

Natural Habitat

Vanda orchids occur naturally in New Guinea, some islands in the western Pacific, and in East and Southeast Asia. They’re often found in the jungle, so they are used to humid, tropical environments.

Most Vandas are epiphytes. This means that in the wild, they tend to grow in gaps or crevasses in tree bark, or in the joints of tree limbs. However, they’re sometimes found growing on rocks too.

This type of growing environment can be mimicked in cultivation to keep the plants happy and healthy.

How to Care for a Vanda Orchid

Now that we know what a Vanda’s natural habitat looks like, we can break this down into a few different aspects.

Light

In general, these orchids require a lot of light. Exactly how much light a Vanda orchid requires depends mostly on the species and the type of leaves the plant has.

Vandas can have three types of leaves, depending on the species:

• Strap leaves: these are long and broad.
• Terete leaves: these are rounded leaves, retain water, and are nearly tubular in shape.
• Semi-terete: these fall somewhere between terete and strap in shape.

Plants with strap leaves or semi-terete leaves need partial shade and protection from the sun during the warmest parts of the day. Those with terete leaves prefer full sun.

If you’re keeping your Vanda orchid indoors, place it by a south-facing window, if possible.

Related: How Much Light Do Orchids Need?

Temperature

Vanda orchids prefer warm temperatures. Temperatures should be between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit at night, with daytime temperatures reaching no more than 95 degrees Fahrenheit.

Although they can tolerate slightly colder temperatures, it is not optimal, and temperatures should not drop to below 55 degrees Fahrenheit.

Humidity

These orchids thrive in a high humidity environment. Remember, they come from a tropical natural habitat. Humidity levels of 50 percent and greater are best, with a humidity level of 80 percent considered ideal.

You can raise humidity levels using a humidifier or grouping plants together. Be careful – it’s also essential to maintain free airflow around the plants to prevent rot and bacteria.

Watering

Vanda orchids should be watered frequently, especially during the spring and summer months, which is the growing season. In autumn and winter, watering can be reduced.

The roots should remain moist but should never be soggy. A well-draining, loose potting medium can aid in keeping the roots dry.

Potting Mix

Because Vanda orchids naturally cling to cliff walls or spaces in tree bark, they require minimal potting medium. In high humidity environments, they require almost no potting medium at all.

You should choose a coarser mix that drains well, such as large pieces of fir bark. Alternatively, you can use a charcoal medium or a gritty soil that retains little water.

Pot / Hanging Basket

These plants grow from a single large stem and generally have a substantial aerial root structure. As a result, they thrive in loose net pots, or in hanging baskets.

Hanging Vanda orchids is popular not only because it makes for an attractive display, but also because it is a more natural environment for the plant.

A basket with slats can simply be hung from a beam or ceiling, and the plant can be placed inside. Exposing the roots to the air actually benefits the plant’s growth.

Another option for hanging Vanda orchids is mounting them to driftwood. Plants can simply be tied gently to driftwood, and the wood can then be hung using eyehooks. To water, the entire piece of driftwood, including the plant’s roots, can be dipped in a bowl.

Repotting

When placed in a basket, Vanda plants can be left alone for years at a time without repotting. They only need repotting about once every two years, although some sources suggest every year as a better timescale.

Before repotting, soak the plant’s roots in water to make them more pliable. Trim away any dead or rotting roots, place the plant in a larger basket or clay pot with new potting medium, and allow it to remain dry for several days before watering again.

Blooms

Vandas are among a handful of orchids that can produce truly blue flowers. For this reason, they are prized by gardeners interested in creating hybrids.

They feature large, brightly colored blooms with rounded petals, and grow to a variety of sizes, depending on the species.

These orchids come in many colors, including white, orange, pink, and red, and any mixes of these colors. However, the most popular and often the most visually appealing colors are purple and blue. These can range from lighter shades to dark, vibrant ones.

Vanda orchids bloom frequently (generally, every few months) and, depending on the species, can bloom at all times of the year. The blooms themselves can last anywhere from a few weeks to a month or two.

Pruning

These orchids can benefit from occasional, careful pruning. Trimming back the old stems will encourage the plant to bloom again during the next flowering cycle.

Once a stalk has finished blooming, cut it back as far as possible. When trimming the plant’s stems or roots, always be sure to use a sharp, sterilized knife or pair of scissors to minimize damage to the plant and reduce the risk of transmitting diseases.

Care Summary

Here’s a quick recap of all the different care aspects:

Types of Vanda

This genus is quite diverse, with about 80 different species. Common species include:

Vanda ampullacea

• Bright pink in color
• A smaller plant, with blooms only one to two inches across
• Blooms in spring and summer

Vanda coerulea

• Commonly known as the blue orchid
• Produce large purple-blue flowers
• Blooms in the autumn months
• Juice from the flowers can be used in eye drops to fight glaucoma, and may also fight aging

Vanda cristata

• Produces pale green flowers with a red and white center
• Also known as the comb Vanda
• Blooms during the spring and summer months

Vanda sanderiana

• Commonly known as waling-waling
• Produces pink and white blooms, four to six inches across
• Blooms in the spring and summer months

Vanda ustii

• Found only in the Philippines
• Produces yellow flowers with a pink center
• Flowers have a distinct rounded petal, nearly tubular in shape

Vanda hindsii

• Known as the Cape York Vanda or native strap orchid
• Flowers are brownish red with green, yellow and white markings
• Flowers from late autumn until early spring

Vanda tricolor

• Also known as the soft Vanda
• Produces white flowers with red and pink markings
• Blooms in autumn and winter

Do you love these orchids as much as we do? Let us know about your experiences growing Vandas in the comments below.

The post Vanda Orchids: Beginner’s Care Guide & Pictures appeared first on Brilliant Orchids.

They’re available in a wide variety of species, so there are many options for orchid enthusiasts. They are also easy to care for and can even be grown outside in the right climate.

History and Cultivation

Cymbidium orchids are prized for their elegant beauty and the wide variety of colors they can be found in. Aside from being attractive houseplants or additions to the garden, they’re often used in cut flower arrangements or in corsages. One particular variety of boat orchid is also considered to be a delicacy in Bhutan.

The boat orchid naturally appears in tropical and subtropical Asia, and Australia. It was first described by botanist Olaf Swartz in 1799. Boat orchids can have a life span lasting decades. However, the exact amount of time an orchid will live depends significantly on several factors. This includes the particular species, where the plant is grown, whether it’s introduced to any diseases, and how it’s cared for.

Appearance

Cymbidium orchids are easy to recognize by the shape of their flowers. Each petal is long and separated from the others. In the middle of the flower, the labellum looks like a cup or boat, giving the flower its name.

Boat orchids have long green leaves, and each stem will grow between 10 and 25 flowers at a time, making them very dramatic-looking plants. The stems themselves are long and pale green.

These orchids come in a wide range of colors. In fact, you can find them naturally in nearly every color except blue. Some of the most common colors are white, red, and yellow, with flowers in variegated forms of these colors being quite common and popular.

Cymbidium orchids exist in both standard size and miniature forms. Mini cymbidiums generally grow to only between four and eight inches in height, so they’re the perfect size for a smaller space. The flowers are tiny and very delicate, but the plants themselves aren’t as dependent on cold weather for their blooming cycle as the standard size varieties.

Cymbidium Varieties

Cymbidium aloifolium

• Also known as the aloe-leafed orchid
• Flowers are yellow and red
• Plants bloom in the summer and can produce up to 75 flowers
• Flowers are known to have a strong scent

Cymbidium kanran

• A variety of the Chinese cymbidium
• Also known as the cold-growing cymbidium, due to its habit of growing in cooler areas
• Flowers are usually greenish in color but can also have a red tinge
• Flowers are strongly scented

Cymbidium ensifolium

• Also known as the four-season orchid, rock orchid, and golden thread orchid
• Known to be heat tolerant
• Flowers range from two to three inches in size and are generally green or reddish-brown in color

Cymbidium lowianum

• Also known as Low’s cymbidium
• Flowers between January and April, with each stem producing up to 25 flowers
• Flowers are green to yellow in color, with a red V shape in the middle

Cymbidium dayanum

• Also known as Day’s orchid, the tree orchid, or the phoenix orchid
• Produces white and red flowers in a distinct triangular shape
• Blooms in November

Cymbidium Care

Cymbidiums, unlike many other orchid species, work well as an outdoor plant. If at all possible, it’s best to grow them outside from late spring to early fall.

Light & Temperature

Cymbidiums prefer warm temperatures—between 75 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit—during the day, and cooler temperatures at night. Night temperatures at around 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal. In fact, if standard sized cymbidiums are not exposed to cooler night temperatures, they may fail to bloom.

Boat orchids can tolerate light frosts and can survive temperatures as low as 35 degrees Fahrenheit. However, it is recommended that plants are brought inside when temperatures drop below about 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

Cymbidiums require a great deal of light and, as long as they don’t get sunburn, can withstand full sun. During the day they should have as much light as possible, with shade only in the warmest part of the day. When growing them inside, place them in an east-facing window if possible.

An easy way to determine whether a boat orchid is receiving the right amount of light is to look at the color of the leaves. Bright green leaves mean a healthy plant that’s getting the correct amount of light. Leaves that are dark green indicate that the plant is not receiving enough light. Pale or yellow leaves mean the plant is receiving too much light.

Watering

You should water your boat orchids in the morning with lukewarm water. Try to keep your potting medium damp. Watering once a week is a decent general rule of thumb, but how often to water depends on the plant and the plant’s location. In the warmer months, watering can occur slightly more frequently.

It can also be beneficial to spray the leaves of the plant with a fine mist of water once or twice a month. Distilled water is a better choice for watering cymbidium orchids.

These orchids prefer an environment with about 40 to 60 percent humidity. Indoors, a humidifier can help to increase humidity. However, it’s also essential that, in high humidity areas, the area around the plants has good airflow, to prevent rot and disease.

Potting

Boat orchids do best in a slightly acidic, water-retaining potting medium. Fir bark mixed with peat moss is a popular choice. You can also incorporate loam, redwood fiber, and dried oak leaves into the medium.

Cymbidiums do best when they are undisturbed, so it’s best to choose a clay pot that will allow for about two years’ growth. Boat orchids actually bloom better when they are in a tight pot. Don’t allow them to spread out. When repotting does become necessary, repot during the spring, or after the plant has flowered.

Cymbidiums are sympodial orchids, which means they have pseudobulbs. It also means they can propagate through division. During repotting, split larger or older plants into sections three to four inches long, with three healthy pseudobulbs each. Each section can be repotted and will become a new plant.

When repotting a cymbidium, make sure not to bury the pseudobulbs under the potting medium.

Flowers

Boat orchids generally bloom in early spring, when night temperatures are cooler. However, some varieties may bloom in the autumn months instead. How long the blooms last depends on the specific species, but generally, the flowers will remain for several weeks, and may even stay for up to two months.

Once a stem has bloomed, it will not flower again. It’s important to trim away dead stems periodically to encourage more flowers the following year.

Potential Diseases

Unfortunately, cymbidiums are susceptible to a variety of diseases.

Cymbidium mosaic virus is one of the most common conditions the plant encounters. Interestingly, this virus only occurs in cultivated orchids.

Some of the symptoms of the mosaic virus are white or yellow spots or rings on the plants or brownish areas that look like bruises. Infected plants will also produce fewer flowers and may not grow as well.

Another common cymbidium disease is the odontoglossum ringspot virus. This looks quite similar to Cymbidium mosaic disease, in that it can cause brown patches on the leaves and flowers of the plant.

There are no cures for either cymbidium mosaic disease or odontoglossum ringspot virus. Also, healthy plants that are not displaying symptoms can sometimes be carriers of either disease and can thus spread it to other plants. For these reasons, prevention of disease and preventing the diseases’ spread are the best options.

If you want to prevent diseases, it’s crucial to ensure that plants have good airflow around them. It’s also important to sterilize all cuttings and to use clean, sterile tools when trimming or propagating the plant.

Boat orchids are also susceptible to bacterial infections, as well as to mites. You can prevent mites by frequently misting the undersides of the plant’s leaves.

The post Cymbidium (Boat Orchid): Care Guide & Pictures appeared first on Brilliant Orchids.

It’s quite common to think you’ve managed to kill your orchid. These troubleshooting tips should help you identify whether your plant is perfectly fine, or whether it’s really time to throw in the towel.

Dormant or Dead?

The most common orchid you’ll see is the Phalaenopsis. If you’re like many people, you may have been gifted one. It was in full bloom when you received this beautiful plant, and it looked incredibly healthy. At some point, though, the flowers faded and eventually fell off.

Someone who doesn’t know much about orchids may panic at that point. They might wonder what they did to kill it. Chances are, you did absolutely nothing wrong. The orchid is merely going through its normal growth cycle.

When orchid flowers fade and fall off, the plant is usually still healthy. It doesn’t mean it’s dead; its bloom season is simply dormant. For some orchids, such as Phals, when their blooming period is over, it’s time for the roots and leaves to grow.

With proper care, your orchid will rebloom when it’s time to do so. Once the flowers fall off and the flowering spike turns yellow, cut the spike about a half-inch from the base. The orchid can then use its energy for root and leaf growth.

Orchid Death

So, how do you know if your orchid is actually dead?

If it has leaves but no roots, there’s a chance you can revive it. It will take time, however, as orchids can be slow to bounce back. Rooting hormones may help, but in many cases, you’ll just have to be patient and practice a wait-and-see approach.

An orchid with no leaves, however, is usually doomed. It’s unable to make the necessary food to keep it alive.

Common Reasons Why Orchids Die

One of the most common reasons for premature orchid death is overwatering. This usually leads to root rot, where the roots become soft and mushy. It could lead to losing all roots, which makes it hard for an orchid to remain hydrated.

It’s essential to plant orchids in appropriate media. This isn’t typical garden soil. Orchids do best in airy, light media, such as bark, sphagnum moss, coconut husk, or perlite. Mixtures containing a combination of these work well.

Another reason for orchid death is crown rot. Water should never be allowed to sit in the crown, the space where the leaves join the plant. This often kills leaves first before killing off the entire plant.

How to Make an Orchid Bloom Again

In many cases, your orchids will rebloom when it’s their time to do so. If you want to encourage healthy and beautiful flowers, it’s important to take care of your plant during the dormant season.

Regular fertilizing with an orchid-appropriate fertilizer is the best way to make sure your plant remains strong and healthy. Make sure you’re fertilizing on a regular schedule with a product designed for orchids. Typically, these are 20-20-20 formulations: they contain balanced ratios of potassium, nitrogen, and phosphorous, providing the vital nutrients to produce well-formed flowers.

Orchids tend to bloom seasonally. Phals often require cooler temperatures to trigger flower spikes. If you place your orchid near a window in the fall and winter, this is often the boost they need to start growing a flower spike.

How to Save an Unhealthy Orchid

Orchids can suffer numerous health issues, with some much more severe than others. Some of the most common problems you’ll see on your orchids include the following:

• Falling and/or yellowing leaves: First, orchids lose older leaves occasionally. As long as it’s the bottom-most leaf, that’s a natural occurrence. Sometimes, you might lose leaves at the crown or other leaves that aren’t the bottom ones. They usually turn yellow first. In this case, your orchid may not be receiving proper nutrients, or it may be getting too much sunlight.
• Leaf spots: Spots on orchid leaves may be due to extreme light or fungal infections. If it’s a light issue, you can move your plant to an area that doesn’t receive as much direct sunlight. Otherwise, a fungicide application may be necessary.
• Root rot: This is often one of the biggest problems new orchid owners have, often because they’ve overwatered their plant. It’s best to remove dead roots whenever you repot your orchid. To prevent root rot in the future, water your orchid only when the medium is dry.
• Wrinkled leaves: If your orchid isn’t getting enough water, the leaves may appear wrinkly. It may be due to insufficient watering or due to a lack of roots, leading to dehydration.
• Mites and other pests: Spider mites, mealybugs, and snails can attack your orchids. To get rid of pests like mites and mealybugs, dab the affected areas with a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol. Follow up with a horticultural or neem oil to prevent a reoccurrence.

The American Orchid Society is another excellent place to start learning how to care for orchids.

The post Is My Orchid Dead? Can I Revive It? appeared first on Brilliant Orchids.

Many people find themselves overwhelmed by the idea of repotting their plant, as they are afraid of damaging it. However, once you understand the basics of how repotting is done, the process can be straightforward.

This is our simple step-by-step guide to help you perfect this technique.

How to Tell When Your Orchid Needs Repotting

Before we get started, it’s important to determine whether your orchid actually needs to be repotted.

It takes time and energy for a plant to adjust to any new environment, so you should repot as infrequently as possible, to avoid causing your plant unnecessary stress.

A common rule of thumb is to repot an orchid once every two years. However, this will depend on several different factors. The two main reasons why you’ll need to repot are:

• First and foremost, your orchid is (hopefully) a thriving and growing plant. This means that every few years, you may need to provide your plant with more space to grow into. If your orchid’s roots are densely packed and tangled together, it may be time to repot.

• The other primary reason will be that your potting mix is starting to break down.

Orchids generally prefer looser potting materials such as bark and moss. These materials allow air and water to move around freely. However, these organic substances eventually break down and decompose.

This will cause it to clump together around the roots, causing poor drainage and airflow. This can eventually cause infections and root rot.

Avoid Repotting During the Blooming Season

Even if your orchid looks like it really needs repotting, you should avoid trying to repot it during blooming.

Repotting during the blooming season can result in your orchid losing its flowers, and can really stress it out. This can cause irreparable damage to your plant!

For best results, make sure that the blooming season has completely finished before you try to repot.

How to Repot an Orchid

Once you’ve decided it’s time to repot your orchid, follow these simple steps to ensure your plant is repotted safely:

Step 1: Choose a New Pot

In general, you’ll need to find a pot that’s approximately 1 to 2 inches wider in diameter than the previous one. That way, you can be sure that they have enough space without the pot being excessively large.

Make sure the pot drains well and allows good airflow. Choose one that’s specifically for orchids. You can find a good selection of these online or at your local garden store.

Sterilize the pot by soaking it in boiling water for a few minutes. Orchids are very sensitive to bacteria and toxins, so it’s important to sterilize all the equipment you use during the repotting process.

Related: Best Orchid Pots: Beginner’s Buying Guide

Step 2: Prepare Your Potting Mix

Measure out enough fresh potting mix to fill your chosen pot. Most orchids require a loose mix of bark and sphagnum moss, though this can vary depending on the type of orchid.

Soak your potting mix in boiling water, then drain it well and spread it out to cool down. This will sterilize the mix and make it damp enough to give your orchid a head start after repotting.

Related: Orchid Potting Mix: Care Guide & Information

Step 3: Remove the Old Spikes

Your orchid’s blooming season should be over by now, so this is a good time to do a little cleanup. Removing any old flowering spikes will allow the plant to use its resources more effectively.

To trim these spikes, first, clean your pruning shears with hot water and soap. After this, you’ll also want to sterilize them with alcohol or a hot flame to ensure that nothing on the blade can harm your plant.

Once your tools are prepared, you can start trimming. Cut any woody, brown spikes near the base and dispose of them.

Related: How To Prune An Orchid: Step By Step Guide

Step 4: Remove the Orchid From Its Pot

After you’ve prepared your new pot and medium, you’ll need to remove your orchid from the pot that it’s currently in. Put on a pair of plastic or rubber gloves and gently, but firmly, grasp the orchid around its base. Now you will need to carefully pull the orchid and slightly move it around to loosen it from the pot.

Unfortunately, this can sometimes prove to be quite a challenge. To make sure you don’t damage any of the roots, sometimes your best bet will be to break the old pot so that you can protect the orchid itself.

Step 5: Remove Old Potting Mix and Dead Organic Matter

Once the plant is out of the pot, you will need to remove all the old potting mix from the roots and base of the plant. Be careful that you don’t harm any of the healthy roots in the process. Take your time and wipe away all the old material without pulling or tugging on the roots.

Now is a good opportunity to see if your plant has any dead or dying roots. Removing them is good for the health of your orchid, as they won’t be able to affect its growth as it settles into its new pot.

Cut off any brown and dried roots that are clearly dead. You can also trim away any roots that look mushy or rotten.

Just be careful not to be over-zealous when doing this. If in doubt about a root, leave it. For more guidance on trimming these roots, check out our pruning guide:

Related: How To Prune An Orchid: Step By Step Guide

Step 6: Place Your Orchid in Its New Pot and Water It

Now it’s time for you to place your orchid in the new pot. Carefully lift it by its base and gently lower it into the potting material. Tuck some extra potting mix into any gaps in the roots, but don’t pack it too tightly.

If you’re using moss, you may want to wrap some around your orchid’s roots before you place it into the pot. This just makes it a bit easier to evenly distribute the potting medium around all the roots.

After it’s safely put away, you’ll want to make sure you water it sufficiently.

You’ll want to make sure your fresh potting medium receives enough water to saturate it. This may not be necessary if it’s still quite damp from soaking it in the boiling water. Make sure to drain any excess water after watering, to prevent root rot.

You can also gently mist your orchid for the next few days to help it along.

Related: How to Water an Orchid: Care Guide & Pictures

Congratulations, you’ve successfully repotted your orchid!

Repotting Video

If you’d like to see all this in action, check out this great video from the New York Botanical Garden:

Frequently Asked Questions

What Kind of Potting Medium Do Orchids Need?

Orchids are especially picky plants. They generally enjoy having their roots out in the open and wrapping around their surrounding area. This means that you don’t want to put your orchid in something dense like standard potting soil.

Instead, orchids prefer potting mediums such as bark, peat moss, or a specially designed orchid potting mix. These materials provide the orchid with some stability while still allowing for the free flow of air and water.

Check out our guide to potting mixes if you want to learn more about the different types.

How Do I Repot an Orchid With Aerial Roots?

Aerial roots are important to the health of your orchid. They encourage photosynthesis and absorb a lot of water and oxygen for the plant to live off of.

However, having a sprawling mass of aerial roots is often a sign that your orchid needs repotting. There are no specific steps that you need to take that are different from repotting an orchid without these roots.

Just make sure you don’t trim off healthy roots by mistake or move them around too much when you are removing the plant from the pot. Also, once you place your plant in the new pot, you can put some of these roots back under the potting medium. Burying them can help them to grow in the proper direction again, but don’t force them.

We hope you found this guide useful. If you have any tips or tricks when repotting, leave us a comment below!

The post How to Repot an Orchid: Step by Step Guide appeared first on Brilliant Orchids.

Here’s everything you need to know to grow a beautiful and healthy Phalaenopsis that will last years and years.

What is a Phalaenopsis orchid?

The Phalaenopsis orchid is a genus of orchid that contains about 70 different species. This particular orchid species is native to India, China, Southeast Asia, New Guinea, and Australia. However, the most variety and largest populations are found in the Philippines and Indonesia.

One of the prominent features of this particular genus is the unique shape of the flower, which looks like the wings of a flying moth.

This genus was first originally and formally described in the early 1800s by Carl Ludwig Blume. It has the name Phalaenopsis because of its shape and flower form. Phalaenopsis comes from the Ancient Greek word phalaina, which means “a kind of moth,” hence the nickname “moth orchid.”

Physical appearance

Phalaenopsis orchids have coarse, long roots. They have short, leafy stems, and flat flowers that bloom near the end of their flowering stem branches. The leaf bases can often overlap one another, which can give it a much more abundant appearance. The leaves themselves are usually large and leathery-looking.

The flowers have their petals spread widely apart, also creating a much larger and fuller appearance. This natural play on size is just one of the main reasons that people fall in love with them.

Types of Phalaenopsis

With over 70 different species falling into this particular genus, it’s crucial to know what you have or what you want to buy.

Here are some of the most popular and common Moth Orchids that you might come across during your search.

Common Species

• Phalaenopsis Amabilis
  • Also known as the moon orchid for its bright white flowers. 
  • Popular due to its numerous flowers. Many stems can hold up to 10 flowers at a time. 
  • Thrives in bright, but indirect sunlight.
• Phalaenopsis Schilleriana
  • This species of Phalaenopsis is native to the Philippines. 
  • It is widely beloved for its beautiful lilac flowers. 
  • This flower has a stunning rose-like fragrance when it’s in bloom. 
• Phalaenopsis Aphrodite
  • The Phalaenopsis Aphrodite is most commonly found in Southeastern Taiwan and the Philippines. 
  • It’s famous for its beauty and gets its name from the Greek goddess of beauty, Aphrodite. 
  • The flowering season of this species usually lasts from October to April.
• Phalaenopsis Equestris
  • Admired for its stunning cluster of 10 to 20 flowers, each of which can reach about 1 inch in diameter.
  • This species can come in a wide variety of different colors and patterns but the most common is light purple. 
  • This particular species is also highly adaptable and can thrive in a range of environments. 
• Phalaenopsis Bellina
  • This orchid species is native to Borneo and is one of the most commonly cultivated species in the Phalaenopsis genus. 
  • The flowers themselves can grow to be 5 or 6 cm in size and are often star-shaped, with bright fuschia at the base of the petals.  

These are some of the more commonly seen species, but there is also a wide array of other variants for you to choose from.

Spotted Phalaenopsis

• Characterized by the unique and individual spots that mark the petals of the flowers. The coloring of the spots can vary depending on the background color of the petals. 
• One example is the Harlequin Phalaenopsis which is actually not a pure species, but rather a cultivated mutation. 

Phalaenopsis Hybrids

• Due to the overwhelming popularity of this genus, many Phalaenopsis hybrids also make their way into people’s homes.
• The Harlequin is one of the most well known. However, there are orchid breeders around the world who are continually searching for opportunities to create new plants. 

Mini Phalaenopsis

• These are specific species of Phalaenopsis that have been bred for their smaller size and more manageable care routine.
• Another benefit you can enjoy with these orchids is their long-lasting flowers which are known to sustain for months on end.

Wild Phalaenopsis

• These orchids thrive in their natural wild environment. They coil themselves around trees and rocky surfaces close to rivers and streams so they can readily get the nutrients and care they need.
• They do quite well in the bright and indirect sunlight under the trees and enjoy staying in areas with milder temperatures.

What colors do Phalaenopsis come in?

Phalaenopsis orchids are very varied, and first-time orchid growers are often amazed at the number of colors they can come in. You can expect to find them in white, yellow, pink, fuschia, purple, or even spotted and striped.

However, the most popular colors (and the easiest to find) will almost always be white and purple. These have been among the most desirable color choices for owners and breeders alike for hundreds of years.

How to care for a Phalaenopsis

Many beginners are overwhelmed and frightened off by the sensitivity of orchids. However, once you actually understand what your orchid needs on a daily and weekly basis, you’ll feel more confident caring for it.

Here’s a helpful guide that you can use to ensure that you’re giving your Phalaenopsis everything it needs to thrive.

Light, Temperature, and Humidity

For your orchid to really do its best, one of the first things you’ll want to make sure of is that it receives bright, but indirect sunlight. This is because it enjoys the warmth that the sun can bring, but can burn under direct light.

These orchids typically grow underneath larger trees in more forested areas. The best place for them is next to an eastern or western facing window. This ensures that they never get more than two hours of direct sunlight per day.

Temperature-wise, the Phalaenopsis is a particularly easy-going plant and can even withstand temperatures up to 93 degrees Fahrenheit. However, you’ll want to make sure it stays within the ideal temperatures of 68 and 73 degrees.

Also, these orchids tend to grow close to rivers and streams in warmer, more humid climates. This means that you’ll want to keep your orchid in an area of about 50% humidity. An easy way to achieve this in most homes will be to keep a water base such as a pan or plate close to your orchid. The water can consistently evaporate and create the perfect mini-environment for them.

Pots and Potting Medium

Another important factor that you’ll need to take into consideration when caring for your orchid will be what you decide to place it in. Orchids can be especially picky when it comes to their pots and potting medium. In fact, putting them in the wrong sized pot can be all it needs to fail.

For Phalaenopsis, you’ll want a pot that’s able to support its longer stem without being too large to leave them feeling insecure. Typically, these orchids are sold in pots between 4 and 6 inches in diameter. This is often the perfect sized pot for your orchid unless you’re hoping for it to grow to a larger size over time.

The material you place your orchid in will also make a big difference to its health. Phalaenopsis like their roots to be free to wrap around their surroundings. This means that you’ll want to find a potting medium that allows for free airflow and movement. Bits of bark or peat moss will be the ideal materials in these cases and can often be found in your local nursery or online supplier.

Watering

For most beginners, the trickiest part will be watering. How much water does your orchid need? When is the best time to water them?

Well, in fact, every orchid type is different. You’ll need to make sure you aren’t overdoing things if you expect your plant to flourish. Unfortunately, for the Phalaenopsis genus, there really is no one right answer. The amount you need to water will depend on several different factors.

First, you’ll need to take into account the drainage of your pot, how dry your home is kept, your potting material, and the temperature of your home. However, generally speaking, if you’ve planted your Phalaenopsis in bark, you’ll want to try and water it about once every seven days.

Make sure you feel your bark and test its dryness. If your bark is bone dry, then you’ll want to soak your orchid for about 10 minutes, allowing the water to really get into the bark as well as the roots.

However, if your orchid potting medium is still somewhat moist, simply pass some water through it until it fills the bottom of your drainage plate.

When to Repot a Phalaenopsis

Your orchid is a living and hopefully thriving plant, and so some growth should naturally be expected. However, many first-time growers are surprised that they may have to repot their Phalaenopsis to have it continue doing well.

To repot your Phalaenopsis correctly and without damaging the plant, you’ll need to take a few factors into consideration.

First, you’ll need to be able to recognize when your orchid needs to be repotted. As a general rule, Phalaenopsis should be repotted every two years. However, there are a few warning signs you can also look out for.

One of the most obvious will be when the lower leaves of your plant start to die. This will make your orchid especially weak and easily damaged.

Another sign will be when the potting medium you’ve planted it in starts to decompose and become fine and gritty. Whenever you notice this happening, it’s time to start looking for a larger pot.

However, you mustn’t try and repot your plant during its blooming season. This will result in all the flowers falling off and possibly harming your plant in the process. The best thing to do is wait until your plant finishes its bloom before you repot.

Repotting Materials

Once you’ve determined that it’s the correct time to repot, you’ll need to take a few necessary steps to complete the process. This means purchasing a new, slightly larger pot as well as new potting material. If your plant did well in the park or peat moss medium already, then stick with this same material. The fewer changes your orchid has to go through, the better.

How to Repot

To repot the plant, the first thing you’ll need to do is carefully remove the plant from the original pot.

Gently grasp the orchid by the stem and carefully maneuver it out of the pot. You can use rubber gloves for this if it helps. Once the plant is out of the pot, make sure you remove all the old potting material from around the stems and roots.

Once you’ve done this, you’ll want to remove any dead and dying leaves from the bottom of your plant. Keep in mind that it’s totally normal for orchids to lose two leaves every year from the bottom of the stem so that two new leaves can grow on top. You’ll also want to remove any dead roots that you see so that the new space can be taken up by healthy and thriving roots.

Once your plant is ready, it will be time to place it into the new pot with fresh potting material. Make sure to water your orchid thoroughly after you repot so that the potting medium and roots can absorb all the water they need.

It’s really not as hard as it looks, and just remember that practice makes perfect!

The post Phalaenopsis (Moth Orchid): Care Guide & Pictures appeared first on Brilliant Orchids.

Fortunately for the beginner, Cattleya orchids are also forgiving plants to grow in the home. They tolerate a wide range of conditions and their pseudobulbs make it easy to tell when they need watering.

Let’s start by taking a look at the natural habitat of the Cattleya orchid, so we can understand how to care for one.

Natural Habitat

This variety evolved in the rainforests of South America, growing along the trunks and branches of host trees in the humid canopy.

These non-parasitic plants do not draw nutrients from the trees, however. Instead, their specially evolved roots absorb moisture and nutrients from the air and debris caught around the base of the plant.

While they are tropical, most species of Cattleya live at higher elevations. They benefit from lower temperatures in the morning and evening.

How to Care for a Cattleya Orchid

Imagine this natural environment when you pot, place, and water your orchid. It will guide you toward keeping it healthy.

We can break this down into a few different aspects:

Light

In their jungle home, sunlight is abundant but also filtered through the growth above and around them. Too much full, direct sunlight will dry out and burn the plant. Too little will stunt growth and prevent flowering.

When you choose a place for your plant, ensure that there will be plenty of indirect light, especially early in the day. If it’s near a window that gets a lot of direct sun, shield your orchid with a sheer curtain.

Depending on where you live, it will be necessary to move the orchid into more sunlight during the winter months when days are shorter and increase shade in the summer.

Balance is essential. If you notice that your Cattleyas drying out quickly or showing signs of sunburn, make sure to protect it from too much direct light.

Temperature

The ideal temperature range for these plants is between 70 and 80°F during the day, with a drop to the low 60s at night. Cool nights help to prompt blooms and steady growth.

If you live in a climate with warm summers and cold winters, place these orchids outside in areas of indirect lighting from late spring until the first frost.

During winter, be sure to keep your orchid away from heaters because the dry air will wither and damage it. Temperature shock can also adversely affect the health of the plant, so it’s best to keep it in an area with gentle air circulation and no strong drafts.

Humidity

Cattleya orchids are tropical but do not need to be grown in a sauna. They like humidity ranging between 40 and 70%.

There are a handful of simple ways to raise the humidity levels in the area where your plant is growing.

For single plants or small groups, place a tray of water and pebbles or gravel near or beneath the plants. If the plants are on the tray, make sure there’s space between the bottom of the pot and the water. Otherwise, the pot won’t drain properly, and the roots will rot.

If you live somewhere very humid, air circulation will be vital for your orchid. Stagnant moist air creates an environment for rot and diseases to take hold.

Watering

The Cattleya is a “sympodial” orchid, meaning it grows from a horizontal stem or “rhizome.” The rhizome sends out creeping roots, and thick pseudobulbs grow upwards. The flower stalks emerge from these.

Pseudobulbs store water to carry the plant through the dry season. This allows these orchids to go longer between waterings than their single-stemmed “monopodial” cousins.

During hot, dry weather or sunny afternoons, gently mist the plant to help keep it moist. If the pseudobulbs are starting to wrinkle, it’s a sign that your orchid needs more water.

You can also consider placing your orchid in a humid bathroom or kitchen if there is enough light.

Potting Mix & Pot

Cattleyas should not be grown in regular potting soil. Instead, choose a looser medium.

Chopped fir bark is very popular, though growers in particularly humid areas may choose an even drier medium like coconut husk or even gravel. The growth medium needs to drain well to avoid root rot.

Over time, the bark, moss, or fiber that your orchid is planted in will break down and compact. If the growth medium has broken down to the point where it starts draining poorly, it’s time to repot the plant in fresh material.

Choose a pot that drains well, so the roots don’t rot. Cattleyas like a smallish pot, that doesn’t leave too much space.

Repotting

In general, expect to repot these orchids about every two years. You’ll know it’s ready for a new pot when the rhizome reaches the pot edge and starts trying to send growth out over the side.

Keep in mind that the plant likes a snug fit in its pot and don’t place it in a pot that’s too large. It should not have more than two years’ worth of room to grow at any given time.

To repot, carefully remove the orchid from its old pot and remove as much growth medium as you can from the root system. Only trim away soft, brown roots that are showing signs of rot. Never trim back aerial roots emerging from the rhizome, even if they overhang the edges of the pot.

The rhizome grows in one direction, and new pseudobulbs emerge from the growing end. When you repot the plant, place the oldest growth closest to the edge of the pot and the growing end of the rhizome toward the center.

Gently tuck growth medium around and into the roots until the pot is full, and the orchid has firm support. You may want to stake or clip the orchid in place as it gets established.

Your orchid should not be repotted while in bloom.

For more information, check out our step-by-step repotting guide.

Fertilizer

These orchids do not need heavy fertilization, and over-feeding them can damage the roots and kill the plant. They will grow and bloom more vigorously with an appropriate amount of nutrition.

Fertilize your orchid at a low strength during active growth around every other time you water. In winter, when the plant is dormant, fertilization can be discontinued or reduced to once a month.

If you’re uncertain whether or not your plant should be fertilized, do without.

Blooms

Some individual species will flower once a year, and others can bloom multiple times. In general, a Cattleya will need the most water and nutrients when actively growing and blooming.

They will then enter a rest period where moisture and fertilizer should be restricted. If your orchid is putting up new growth and flowering regularly, then watering and feeding should be more consistent.

Care Summary

Here’s a recap of what we just learned:

If you’d like to download this as a handy cheat sheet, right-click the image below and select “Save Image”:

We recommend printing it off and keeping it by your orchid. Please share it if you find it useful!

Frequently Asked Questions

Here are some common questions about Cattleyas:

Are Cattleya Orchids Hard to Grow?

Cattleyas are relatively easy to grow. They’re actually one of the better orchids for beginners.

In particular, the pseudobulbs take a lot of the guesswork out of watering. They also mean it’s not the end of the world if you forget to water your plant for a few days.

Aside from that, make sure your orchid has a bit of shade, so it doesn’t get sunburnt. Follow the care summary above, and you’ll be just fine.

Should I Worry About Pests and Diseases?

Always keep an eye out for pests and infections.

Mealybugs and scale can quickly kill your orchid but can be controlled with diligent but gentle applications of rubbing alcohol. Use a cotton swab or pad to remove the pests. Isolate the infested plant and re-treat it weekly for up to a month.

Bacterial and fungal infections can move quickly, and you need to address them before they overwhelm the plant. If soft brown or black spots are developing on the leaves or flowers, cut away the afflicted growth with clean shears.

Thanks for reading, we hope you found this guide useful. What are your favorite tips and techniques for growing Cattleyas? Let us know in the comments below!

The post Cattleya Orchid: Beginner’s Care Guide appeared first on Brilliant Orchids.

Both over-watering and under-watering can cause damage to roots, leaves, and blossoms and eventually kill the orchid.

In this care guide, learn the answers to essential questions about watering and other basic care needs for these singular plants.

Learning About Your Orchid Plant

The first step when learning how to care for your orchid plant properly is to do your homework. As best you are able, find out what the native climate is for your particular varietal of orchid.

According to the Rainforest Alliance, there may be as many as 30,000 different species of orchid today!

There are four basic types of orchid plant:

• Epiphyte (most common): these orchids grow on trees or plants.
• Subterranean: these orchids grow underground.
• Lithophyte: these orchids grow on rocks.
• Soil: these orchids grow in a soil base.

Each type of orchid has different basic needs to thrive. As a rule, orchids are either pan-tropical, which means they can grow successfully and become established in all but the coldest areas, or they are endemic, which means they need a specific type of climate to thrive.

Whether they are pan-tropical or endemic, there are two things that nearly all orchids share in common:

1. Orchids typically take their moisture from the air, rainfall or soil moisture.
2. Orchids lack an established water-retaining root system, so they rely on symbiotic fungi called mycorrhizae to help the orchid absorb water and other essential waterborne nutrients.

How to Water Orchids

In most cases, your orchid will come accompanied by a basic care guide. However, you won’t know how or how well your orchid was cared for before it came to you, and whether it is already under stress or is thriving and well.

Here are some great tips from the American Orchid Society for how to water orchids:

Mist, don’t drench

Because orchid roots cannot retain water, it is all too easy to drown the root system with overwatering.

Since most orchids take much of their water from humidity and rainfall, this tells you that orchids will gladly absorb it when their leaves are misted.

Plastic spray bottles are inexpensive and work great for this purpose.

Ambient humidity

Many orchids are grown in greenhouses because the higher moisture content to the air allows the plant to absorb moisture via humidity.

The more moisture your orchid can access via humidity, the less actual watering you will need to do.

Water in the morning, not at noon or nightfall

The best time to water your orchid is in the morning. This gives the plant all day to make use of it, from the roots to the crown.

Use the right kind of water

Overly chlorinated or treated water or softened water can harm your orchid. When available, the best type is distilled water or pure recycled rainwater.

Use a humidity dish

One unique way to water your orchid that most orchids love is a humidity dish (also called a humidity tray). Place a few stones in a shallow dish, fill it with water, and place the dish and stones underneath your orchid’s pot.

This allows a gentle upwelling of humid air that your orchid can readily absorb for moisture.

You can also buy these trays ready-made, if you prefer.

Other Best Practices When Watering Orchids

These additional tips for orchid watering can help ensure your orchid plant continues to thrive.

Potting media

Soil-growing orchids need the right type of soil medium to absorb water properly. The best medium is one that is specifically made for orchids.

Ice cubes

The use of orchid watering ice cubes is a handy little trick that is not well known outside of orchid grower circles.

What you do is place three ice cubes directly on the soil once per week. As the ice cubes slowly melt, the water trickles down so the plant can absorb it. This ensures you won’t inadvertently drown your orchid with water and rot out the root system.

Airflow

Orchids like some personal space, so be sure you don’t crowd your orchid in too much with other orchids or other plants.

However, be mindful that if there is more airflow or any drafts or wind, this will cause moisture to evaporate more rapidly and you may need to water more frequently as a result.

Proper daylight and dark periods

Orchids really like to have a set schedule because they need the right type of sunlight and also a period of darkness each night to thrive.

The best light for orchids is indirect natural sunlight.

The “lift test”

If you lift up your orchid pot and it is heavy, you don’t need to water. If your orchid feels lightweight, give it some water.

Special Orchid Watering Problems

Sometimes despite your best efforts, your orchid may fail to thrive. A good way to diagnose the problem is to look at the roots.

Here are some fixes to common watering issues.

Root rot

Root rot occurs when the specialized orchid root system is allowed to sit in water.

You may be able to salvage your orchid by changing to a charcoal or clay pellet-based potting medium that absorbs water and lets the roots dry out. Raising the ambient temperature can also evaporate moisture more rapidly.

Too dry

Wimpy water is born of a fear of root rot. But if you stick your finger in the soil and it feels dry, it is time to water.

The goal is to water your orchid one day before it is bone dry. A good strategy is to dunk your orchid pot in a water-filled bucket and wait until bubbling ceases.

Not sure?

A good rule of thumb is that if you are not sure if your orchid needs watering, hold off for one more day and check again.

The post How To Water An Orchid – Care Guide & Pictures appeared first on Brilliant Orchids.

However, a lot of new growers don’t know this and end up causing damage to their plant by picking the wrong kind of pot. Many “standard” plant pots don’t have sufficient drainage and simply aren’t suitable for orchids.

The good news is that there are plenty of pots out there designed specifically for orchids. Let’s take a look at a few of the more common types.

Clay Pots

Most normal clay pots aren’t suitable for orchids as their drainage holes are too small.

However, some come with much larger holes located at the bottom and sides of the pot. These holes help to ensure that the pot drains efficiently, and will keep the plant from absorbing too much water throughout the day.

If you happen to have some standard clay pots already, you can carefully drill these extra holes yourself. They’ll work just fine.

Net Pots

Next, there are net pots, which are made of black, plastic mesh. These will look similar to the containers you get strawberries in when you visit a farmstead during the summer.

These are actually great pots for orchids, as they have excellent drainage and airflow. However, many homeowners avoid them simply because these look a little less appealing, especially after extended use.

Because of this, a common way to use them is as a lining inside another, more attractive pot. This way you get the best of both worlds.

Plastic Pots

Clear plastic pots are another popular option. Many people find them practical because they’re able to see the root system grow over time. You can also easily see how damp the potting mix is, which helps with knowing when to water your orchid.

These pots will look like your standard azalea pot, with the only difference being that they are clear and completely see-through.

If you prefer a more classic look, then this option might just be a bit too modern for you. But again, you can use one of these as an inner pot.

Ceramic Pots

Ceramic pots with net inserts can be a great way to ensure that your orchid gets sufficient drainage. They’ll also help it to get the right amount of air circulation, which can be helpful for plant growth.

Ceramic pots can also look great. The style goes well with the elegant and luxurious look of the orchids themselves.

Wooden Planters

Finally, there are wooden boxes that have become more and more popular over the last few years.

These are made from rot-resistant wood and will typically be lined with sheet moss. They’re then filled with the potting medium best suited for your particular orchid. This potting option comes in a wide range of shapes and sizes, and many homeowners have come to appreciate the natural look that they present.

Frequently Asked Questions

What Potting Mix Should I Use?

The three main options are often soil, moss, and tree bark. However, it’s important to bear in mind that not all orchids enjoy being set in the same potting medium.

Dendrobiums, for example, enjoy having their roots exposed so that they can wrap around whatever they’re planted near. This means that they won’t enjoy being set in soil and it can do severe damage in terms of their growth and health.

Here are some common orchid potting mixes:

Make sure you check out our potting media guide to see which type is best for your orchid.

Which Pot Does My Particular Orchid Prefer?

Now that you understand all the options available to you, it’s time to think about the type of orchid that you’re trying to grow.

In general, most types of orchid should grow just fine in any of the above pots.

However, this can vary a bit depending on where your orchid grows naturally, as well as the shape and size of your orchid. For instance, Dendrobiums usually do best in a slightly smaller pot, because they tend to grow quite tall and narrow.

Be sure to check out our orchid care guides to learn more about your particular type of orchid and its care requirements.

Thanks for reading! We hope you found this guide useful. If you have any tips or tricks for growing orchids in pots, leave us a comment below.

The post Best Orchid Pots: Beginner’s Buying Guide appeared first on Brilliant Orchids.